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ICE CLIMBING MOUNTAINEERING How much is too much of a good thing? Climbing an 80-fo ot ice pillar can be the most reward- ing highlight of a climber's season. Could it follow that climbing a 160-foot pillar would be twice as good? What happens at 300-feet, or 800? The Canadian Rockies surrounding Canmore, Alberta, contain a staggering array of climbs that beg these questions. Local Canadians claim Canmore is the best and biggest place in the world to climb ice. After seeing it, their claims take on an under- stated tone. Canmore, encircled by more than 30,000 square kilometers of Rocky Mountain terrain, is a sparsely inhabited alpine playground with over 400 documented ice routes, dozens of peaks, and hundreds of alp ine routes. For those who are creatures of convenience, Canmore has many quality routes near the road . These are not just 60-foot pillars; they are 2,200-foot ice beauties like Polar Circus or the avalanche-prone 950-foot Cascade Falls. If big alpine routes or standing on a summit is your thing, epics like Slipstream and 11.450-foot Mount Athabasca will get your heart rate going. The vastness of the area and its bewildering array of climbs justify guide services for even expert climbers. Guides can provide insight into the latest weather, avalanche, and climb conditions. Less experienced climbers can take instructional classes ranging from an after- noon to several days before facing the challenges of waterfall climbing. continued on page 70 I OUTFITTERS YAMNUSKA INC., CANADA Headquartered in Canmore, Yamnuska has a broad range of afternoon and multiday instructional classes as well as personalized multiday trips. They have been guiding in the Canadian Rockies for 20 years and use guides certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG). 2 to 5 days; $165 to $840; 4 to 12 person classes, December to March: indi- vidual lessons, or 2'person expeditions; www.yamnuska.com.info@yamnus- ka.com, 403-678-4164. BERG ADVENTURES INTERNATIONAL, CANADA Climbers visiting Canmore to train for expeditions can find guidance from this outfitter, based in Canmore and offering customized individual and small-group instructional classes with ACMG instructors. Beyond the Canadian Rockies, they focus on full-service expeditions around the globe. Customized instruction; $300 per day for one person, cheaper group rates; November to April; maximum group size 4: www.bergadventures.com. info@bergadventures.com, 866-609-4148. M & W GUIDES, CANADA A small Canmore-based company offering specialized instruction since 1989- Certified guides offer services ranging from afternoon classes to multiday excursions. They specialize in introductory ice-climbing classes. For introductory ice courses: 2 days; $425 per day for one person, cheaper group rates; maximum group size 6: November to March: www.mwguides.com. info@mwguides.com. 403-678-2642. This is your introduc· tion to full-blown, high-altitude expedi- tions. At 22,841 feet, Aconcagua, or the "stone sentinel," caps the 4.300-mile-long Andes range and is the highest mountain in the world outside of Asia. Straddling the border of Argentina and Chile, Aconcagua rises 4,000 feet above neighboring peaks and the summit, if you can make it, offers a breathtaking panorama of ice-capped folds stretching to the horizon. Familiarity with the use of ice axes and cram· pons is necessary, and the climb is both physically and mentally demand- ing - a good many people with dreams of bagging one of the Seven Summits have underestimated the strength and endurance needed to tackle this giant. You need to be in excellent physical condition; most operators will recommend that you train for at least three months ahead of time. Where the success rate is only about 20 percent, good outfit- ters boast a 50 to 70 percent success rate - a result of their strict phys- ical assessment processes. In the logical progression of reaching the highest summit on each continent, Aconcagua would come after Tanzania's Kilimanjaro (19,340 feet), the higher altitude, length of climb, and extreme weather make Aconcagua more of a challenge. Adding to the difficulty, Aconcagua is traditionally not porter supported, so you will be humping your own 50- to 60-pound pack into th in air. And the climb is expedition-style, which means double carries to stock higher altitude camps and descend- ing to lower carnps to sleep and acclimatize. December through February is climbing season in the Southern Hemisphere and Aconcagua draws its share of crowds, particularly during the holidays. To avoid the swarm, plan your trip towards the end of February when traffic tapers off. If you plan to climb without a guide service, the first thing you need to do is apply for a compulsory permit at Mendoza's Parque General San Martin. A three-week permit costs $80 ($120 in the January high season). An Argentinean website about the mountain (www.aconcagua.com.ar) can give you all of the details, and local guide recommendations.-Darren Foster I OUTFITTERS ALPINE ASCENTS INTERNATIONAL, USA After earning their reputation in the Himalayas, Alpine Ascents has since spread to the highest peaks around the world. By way of a variation from the more aesthet- ic Vacas Valley Route, they will try to steer you around the crowds as you reach for the summit. If you have the experience, and an extra $500, Alpine Ascents also leads qualified climbers on select trips along the glacial Polish Direct Route. 23 days; $3,950; December-February: 3 to 1 client to guide ratio; maximum group size 10; www.alpineascents.com.C\imb@alpineascents.com. 206-378-1927. MOUNTAIN MADNESS, USA With 10 years on the mountain, Mountain Madness offers two route options: the tra· ditional and often crowded Normal Route and another variation on the Vacas Valley Route, the Polish Traverse, which is slightly more technical and much more serene. For an additional $1,000 they can arrange for porter service on the Normal Route. 23 days; $3,975; December-February; 4 to 1 client to guide ratio; maximum group size 12: www.mountainmadness.com.info@mountainmadness.com. 206-937-8389.