Issue link: https://bluemagazine.uberflip.com/i/25256
ROCK CLIMB ROCK CLIMB If one of your wildest fantasies involves an Indiana Jones brand of exoticism mixed with serious climbing, then Carstensz Pyramid deserves your attention. The smallest member of the world's Seven Summits, Carstensz rises 16,023 feet above the lush and mysterious Indonesian jungle of Irian Jaya. It is the highest peak among the island archipelagoes scattered throughout the central and South Pacific Ocean. The local Dani tribespeo- pie you will encounter there have remained so unchanged by outside influ- ence that the women still wear grass skirts and the men sport penis gourds. Rest assured that while the Dani do use stone axes, cannibalism and tribal warfare are no longer practiced. Aided by local tribesmen, a five-day trek through equatorial bog and virtually impenetrable tropical rainforest brings you to the Carstensz base camp. Scrambling, combined with several sections of moderately difficult technical climbing (up to 5.8) on hard, gray lime- stone, gives you the summit after one to two days. On a clear day, you'll be rewarded for your efforts with views beyond the foothills and jungle to the Arafura Sea. In contrast to the countryside and people you've just encountered, atop the peak you'll also have a bird's·eye view of what is one of the world's largest and most controversial gold and copper min- ing operations. Your privileged and incomparable glimpse at this remote area and its people will leave you searching for the right words to describe it all. Not to mention that Seven Summits notch in your belt. -Karen James NOTE: Travel to this region is extremely unpredictable and potentially danger- ous. Monitor the current political situation closely and seriously consider your ability to handle the unknown. Last minute trip cancellations are common. I OUTFITTERS ALPINE ASCENTS INTERNATIONAL, USA AAI guides high·quality, safety·focused and environmentally sensitive treks and climbs at all levels around the world. They were one of the first outfitters on the scene, and began guiding Carstensz Pyramid in 1994. 22 days; $9,500; Three to one client to guide ratio; October to November, www.alpineascents.com.climb@alpineascents.com; 206-378-1927. MOUNTAIN MADNESS, USA Specializing in mountaineering adventures around the world, this guiding serv- ice emphasizes safe, quality service and a "Leave No Trace" environmental pol- icy. They began guiding Carstensz Pyramid in 1999. 24 days; $9,000; Four to one client to guide ratio; October-November; www.mountainmadness.com.info@mountainmadness.com. 800-328-5925. John Muir could hardly contain his awe when, after scrambling to the top of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows, he pro- claimed, "This I may say is the first time I have been to church in California." That was 1869. Today, Tuolumne still resem· bles Muir's "church" of granite domes, turquoise lakes, and broad alpine mead· ows, but with one large difference-it now has more than 900 climbing routes on near perfect granite. Climbers in Tuolumne can choose from single-pitch sport routes, classic tradition- al climbs, committing alpine lines, and even backcountry bouldering in a setting so scenic John Muir had to look twice. And, thanks to a lack of RV parks and lodges, ''the Meadows" see a fraction of the traffic that marks Yosemite Valley in the summer. With one main road, one main store, and one main camp- ground, all centered around the largest subalpine meadow in the Sierra, Tuolumne is decidedly laid· back. The granite rock is speckled with hard- er feldspar knobs, and the climbing is known to be clean and extremely bold. Ratings at Tuolumne can be deceptively low, often not accounting for 40 to 60 foot sections of unprotected (runout) climbing -nonethe- less, many classic routes, dating from the late 1950s, don't rate any high- er than 5.7 - perfect for beginners. At 8,500 feet, Tuolumne'S season is short, generally June to late September, and often punctuated with nights below freezing. A decent zero-degree sleeping bag and a windproof shell are recommend· ed. Most of Tuolumne's routes are accessible, within an hour's hike (many within minutes) of state Route 120, and are served by shuttle buses that ply the road four times daily. Camping is permitted only at the Tuolumne Meadows campground and reservations go fast. Tuolumne is perfect for longer backcountry epics, for which you'll need a camping permit from the Tuolumne Wilderness Center. Few roads. Fewer crowds. Tons of world class climbing. There are many reasons to visit Tuolumne. Still, at the end of the day, when the gear has been swapped for a game of frisbee and food is on the fire, they don't really matter. Just being there, in church, is reason enough. -Zach Knight I OUTFITTERS I - , ~BLUE.COM L _ 62 Interested to learn more about Irian Jaya? Read BLUE's award·winning feature story NAKED FRISBEE in IRIAN JAVA online at blue.com/V2N3/dani YOSEMITE MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL AND GUIDE SERVICE, USA This is the only company allowed to guide in Yosemite National Park, and has been doing so since 1969. They offer classes for beginning belayers up to advanced wall-haulers, as well as guides by the day. Customized classes and guided climbs; $155 per person per day; maximum group size two; April to November; www.yosemitemountaineering.com. 209-372-8344 ...J o ~ z w u ~ z '" '" a: ;J. ~ w z I g g (!) w ~ ...J d 5 ~ it ~ (!) (!) g 'z W Iii z ii: I "'i r1. 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