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I ALL BACKCOUNTRY I usa: SILVERTON, CO I MOUNTAINEERING WITH A SKI DESCENT russia: MT. ELBRUS eee Today's ski areas have been caught in a massive avalanche of consumer fluff. Trail maps are now essential for getting through malls guarding the lifts. However, all hope for the intrepid skier is not lost. High in the mountains above Silverton, Colorado is a new ski area that knows only one kind of fluff-the powdery stuff you turn your skis in. By today's mountain resort standards Silverton Mountain, opened in January 2002, is an anomaly. There are no ski-in-ski-out con- dos, no coffee shops, and you have to bring your own drinking water. In fact, only 40 skiers or snowboarders are allowed per day. Skiers and snow- boarders-expert and advanced only-are divided into groups of four and each group is led to the best snow by an experienced guide. Blessed with more than 100 feet of powdery precipitation last season, Silverton's 1,600 acres and 3,000 feet of vertical terrain have a history of great conditions_ Skiers and boarders need advanced reservations (usually months before) and are instructed to arrive prior to 9AM for a safety briefing and equipment check. Each person is required to carry an ava- lanche shovel, beacon, and probe (rental cost is $15 per day for the combo) . Sack lunches can be bought for $10 and you should bring a liter of water. In addition to safety gear they rent the Fischer Big Stix 106 for $35 a day, skis that are well suited for this terrain and renting them elim- inates carrying ski bags through airports! All the safety talk and guiding hubbub seems a bit dramatic until you get on the chair. The ascent opens up a steep panorama of un groomed slopes ranging from 25 to 55 degrees. On the first lift ride (there is only one lift), the chair seems agonizingly slow, as your memo- ry recalls how powder is usually ruined within two hours at traditional ski areas. At the top are 270 degrees of skiing and boarding options. Some routes require a short hike uphill, and others start from the lift exit. By the second run, the chair ride seems much shorter as your legs begin to register the coming fatigue. Then, as the third and fourth runs come and go, your mind lets go of the notion that the snow will be tracked-out any time soon, and the chair ride seems way too short! Skiers not lucky enough to have experienced heli-skiing or cat-skiing may not know the ecstatic agony of making too many powder turns. It puts you in the ironic position of having too much untracked snow below you and not enough strength to keep turning. The powder is endless here_ -David Schipper I OUTFITTERS SILVERTON MOUNTAIN, COLORADO Silverton guides are the only guides allowed on the mountain and you must spend the day with one. Really, unguided skiing is not allowed at Silverton, until the Bureau of Land Management completes an Environmental Impact Study of the ski area. A green operation, no trees will be cut for runs! Reservation only; 599 a day (lift ticket and guide); maximum number of peo- ple a day 40; end of November until there is no snow, Thursday to Sunday, 970-387-5706, www.silvertonmountain.com.info@silvertonmountain.com GGGG 000 C9C9C9 0000 Forming a border between Europe and Asia, the Caucasus range is home to sev- eral peaks higher than France's Mont Blanc. The tallest of these, Mt. Elbrus, is the true European bid for the world's Seven Summits (the highest peak on each continent). At 18,586 feet, Elbrus dwarfs Mont Blanc by almost half a mile. During winter, skiers and snowboarders from Moscow and beyond are drawn to the Terskol, Cheget and Azau "resorts" (remember, this is the former Soviet Union) of the Baksan Valley on the southern flanks of Elbrus. This largely undeveloped area is referred to (tongue-in-cheek) as the "Russian Chamonix," and has a formidable snowboard scene, complete with the occasional rail slide and lots of opportunity for big airs. When the areas close, the enticement for off-piste devotees is just beginning. Summer sees the mountain visited by Seven Summit climbers and Russian mountaineers training for even bigger ascents. Otherwise, this twin-peaked, dormant volcano is more or less neglected. After a week or so of acclimatization combined with glacier climbing and avalanche safety skills training, you'll reach the summit by way of a tech- nically easy, although physically taxing, climb using skins and crampons. Imagine yourself carving turns over wide open slopes and in steep bowls, dropping more than 6,000 vertical feet in one to two hours. Known for its moderate grade and relative safety, Elbrus offers the highest and longest descent in the area. Couple that with stunning views of the Caucasus, and you'll be living in a dream come true.-Karen James I OUTFITTERS MOUNTAIN MADNESS, USA Offering beginning to advanced mountaineering and trekking adventures around the world, they have been running multiple expeditions to Elbrus since 1998. Client to guide ratio is three to one. With multiple trips under his belt, guide Tom Milne is fluent in Russian, and encourages you to get to know the local people and environment. 16 days; 53,975; june; minimum of three people; 800.328.5925, www.mountainmadness.com.info@mountainmadness.com APEX ADVENTURE ALLIANCE, USA Apex Adventure Alliance is a Chicago-based adventure travel oufitter and climb- ing school that guides Mt. Elbrus with local and North American guides. Personal growth is emphasized and pre-trip meetings contribute to a strong group dynamic. Client to guide ratio is three to one. 16 days; 52,367; july-August; groups of 5-15; 877.662.5462, www.apexadven- turealliance.com, info@apexadventurealliance.com BERG ADVENTURES INTERNATIONAL, CANADA Berg Adventures International, founded by four-time Everest veteran Wally Berg, runs trips on every continent, and regularly climbs in the Caucasus with local and North American guides. Wally is famous in mountaineering circles, and will give you great insight into the history of Mt. Elbrus climbing. 16 days; 53850; june-july; groups of one to 12; 866.609.4148, www.bergadventures.com.info@bergadventures.com ~BLUE.COM Check out other snow destinations online such as British Columbia at blue.com/snow/bc or Cordova at blue.com/snow/cordova 56