the Adventure Lifestyle magazine

I HUT-TO-HUT CROSS-COUNTRY SKI TOURING I I norway. JOTUNHEIMEN • bl ue Even if you have been spoiled by the grandeur of love Rockies or Tetons, you'll the the Norwegian wi ld in winter, especially if you go deep into Jotunheimen National Park. Imagine tons of virgin snow across a high-altitude plateau ridged with spectacular granite peaks, some jagged, some like the smooth glis- tening shoulders of sleeping gods. (The name Jotunheimen, given by the Scandinavian poet A.A.O. Vinje, translates to "Home of the Giants"). Picture yourself gliding across a snowy plain, or cutting through a frozen stand of pines, the tree branches sealed in sparkling ice. Now feel the delight of arriving at a lodge to find a fire, hot meal, and warm bunk, and sinking into your down bag with that good tired that comes at the end of a 20-klick day on skis. Jotunheimen boasts Norway's three tallest peaks-Store Skagastilstind, Glitterand and Galdhopiggen, all in the 8,000-foot range, and as there are no access roads into the park, all visitors must ski, snow- shoe, or hike to reach the park's interior. Some tours, for accomplished skiers only, include a glacier crossing and a climb of Glitterand and/or Store Memurutind. The most popular guided tour starts in Gjendesheim (a circa 1878 lodge). You can use the Norwegian Mountain Touring Association's (DNT) maps to do a similar route on your own (you still have to join DNT to use the lodges, about $58), but even if you're a DIY-to-the-core type, really consider the guided option. During the course of the day there's still plenty of time to step and glide in relative solitude. Plus, a local guide and expedition pal is a great way to get the skinny on this Norwegian rite and the inside scoop on explorer-adventurers like Borge Ousland, the first person to cross Antarctica without outside support and trained in Jotunheimen. Most days, you'll cover about 9-12 miles, but be prepared for others that run to 18 miles, and a handful of tough ascents that yield out- standing panoramic views. As always, be prepared for sudden changes in the weather. Late in the season is best, March, April, or even the first week of May. Most tours require previous experienced in cross-country skiing with a pack, over broken snow, and at high altitudes. Be sure to bring a good pair of skins for the climbs. Norway doesn't require visas for US citizens, so unless you're a minke whale, you're unlikely to be the target of any Viking violence. But if you want to win over even the most reserved Norseman, bring a nip of aquavit and raise a toast. Skoal!-Brad Wieners I OUTFITTERS DEN NORSKE TURISTFORENINGEN (DNT), NORWAY (THE NORWEGIAN MOUNTAIN TOURING ASSOCIATION) In the business of getting restless Norwegians into the backcountry for 135 years, the DNT is the oldest running hiking and ski touring club in Norway. While attempts to butcher Norwegian are welcome, you needn't be fluent to join the DNT or understand its guides; most of its print literature is offered in English as well. U.S. tour operators who arrange skiing trips in Norway, generally use DNT guides and services. Eight days; $594 to $614 (without food and lodging); groups of 8 to 12; March-April; 47-22-82-28-22, www.turistforeningen.no.turinfo@dntoa.no

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