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furred black bear with a double recessive gene) depend on healthy salmon streams. Commercial fishermen and First Nation inhabitants whose livelihoods and culture revolve around the salmon runs between June and September are also at risk. McAllister's photography and documentation of the area are proof that the loggers are clearing more forest than is sustainable. He points out that increased ecotourism and sport fishing may be the key to saving the rainforest. The injection of that cash into the economy may reduce the need for logging dollars. With world demand for paper products expected to double over the next 15 years, it's not surprising that International Forest Products (lNTERFOR) and Western Forest Products plan to cut nearly 2,300 acres over the next 24 months in Great Bear. The 1.4-million-acre rainforest seems big enough to accommodate everyone, but McAllister says that only a small percentage of this area is actually productive rainforest. "We plan to continue our Market Campaign," McAllister says, "to show that these forests are more valuable healthy-and-intact, than industrially clear-cut-and-farmed." Initiated by consumers, the Market Campaign pressures companies to stop dealing with suppliers who use temperate-rainforest pulp. We climb out of the Zodiacs at the Green River Estuary. The amount of wildlife we spot in the first hour of our trek is stunning. Three river otters and as many seals fish in the lagoon. A grizzly cub pauses, looks over and then swims across the narrow, green channel. Fresh, 14-inch grizzly tracks indicate the mother bear, who can weigh up to 800 pounds and stand eight feet tall, is nearby. McAllister tells me of his summer plans: "We'll be tracking the grizzlies over a few of the passes so that we can monitor the range of the bear habitats and prove that the current logging plans will endanger their populations." During our observation flight that afternoon, I see the slick rock pitches and granite peaks that he has to climb to do that. 28 • ·.·.r�ႀ .·c· :.:. � . .. .. Flying the Cascades Back on the LightHawk Cessna, Moore is gliding through mountain passes that were described to me back in Seattle as the number one cause of small aircraft crashes. Volunteer pilot Jane Nicolai describes flying along the Cascade Mountains as unpredictable, the changing heights and valleys behave like rocks beneath a river current causing swirling wind eddies and down drafts. "This is where a pilot's physical and mental attributes are essential," she continues. "Calculating the wind speed and direction while avoiding a mountainside is incredibly challenging and threatening." My thoughts are on the threats as the Cessna jumps, narrowly avoiding a craggy Cascade peak. Ian scans the Khutze River 10,000 feet below for evidence of new logging roads. Khutze kayaking and conspiracy theories "I don't know of anyone else having rafted down the Khutze before," McAllister says of the class III to IV stretch of whitewater. "It's a different type of descent knowing you may be sharing the rapids with a hungry grizzly." I stare down the river wishing I were in my kayak in the powerful azure rapids. The thought of paddling through a narrow slot next to a grizzly thrashing upon salmon is insane. To McAllister, it's just part of his job. In the late afternoon the Maple Leaf receives a visit from the Inkster, a Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) patrol vessel. The Greenpeace campaigners expect to be questioned but it is Moore and I who are taken aboard the