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column: urban access IARRAKEႠHMARRAKEႠH MARRAKECH MARRAKECH MARRAKECH MARRAKECH MARK!l� \ARRAKႠEEECHMARRAKECH MARRAKEEEECHMARRAKECH ABSORB THE MAGIC Upon arrival in Marrakech. head straight to the Djemma El Fna. a public square on the edge of the old city. At sunset the sky turns brilliant shades of red. yellow and pink. and the snow-capped Atlas Mountains appear out of the haze. a glistening mirage floating in the still desert air. Hundreds of gas lamps cast eerie shadows over the plethora of food vendors. Acrobats whirl high into the sky. The sinuous melodies of snake charmers' flutes mix with the frenetic beat of musicians and dancers. (Gnaoua is healing trance music with African roots.) tellers weave tales of love and intrigue for the crowds surrounding them. It is an intoxi- cating scene y6u'U return to night after night. to absorb its magic and mys- tery. FLY HIGH MA'RRAKECH RIDE ON THE WILD SIDE Rent a bike in the wee hours of the morning and careen through the narrow alleyways and crowds of Marrakech souks (markets). Before you start. be sure to have a stiff Moroccan coffee to steel your nerves: near-miss­ es with donkeys. cars. olive-laden carts are frequent. To enjoy this exhilarating way to explore the maze of souks and get your adrenaline pumping. pick up a mountain bike (or a scooter if you pre­ fer a little more speed) at Marrakech Matos.

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