Issue link: https://bluemagazine.uberflip.com/i/25256
MEXICO: HIDALGO USA: YOSEMITE, CALIFORNIA INDONESIA: CARTENSZ PYRAMID, IRIAN JAYA CANADA: CANMORE, ALBERTA ARGENTINA: ACONCAGUA I ROCK CLIMB mexIco: HIDALGO • From a distance, the dark gray limestone walls of EI Potrero Chico canyon, towering 3,000 feet above the dusty Mexican town of Hidalgo, appear fragile, as if they were formed by hun- dreds of stone fins delicately stacked one right behind the other. When you get close enough to feel the razorsharp rock, you realize that despite its crumbling appearance, the Potrero is a safe haven; it is a place where cowboys, ranchers, local hik- ers, and rock climbers go when they want to get away from the world. In fact, heroic Mexican revolutionary/infamous bandit Pancho Villa is said to have hidden in the depths of the canyon before he was caught and assassinated in Hidalgo in 1923. The name EI Potrero Chico, which translates as small corral, is a misnomer. Standing on the canyon floor, sur- rounded by hundreds of impressive climbs, many of them mul- tip itch routes that reach heights of 1,000 feet, you feel small. Rock climbers come to the Potrero during winter months when the weather is bleak farther north. What they find are routes where you can climb slabs, cracks, and pockets, from one pitch up to fifteen. While the tall pocketed limestone may be reminiscent of the Italian Dolomites, and the appearance of fragility similar to that of Seneca Rock in West Virgina, few other climbing areas have such thrilling and long, multipitch sport routes, and such pleasant winter weather. Just 45 minutes northwest of Monterrey in North Central Mexico, Hidalgo is easily accessible by cab from the Monterrey airport, or by car if you choose to drive over the border. Once you get to Hidalgo, a dirt road funnels climbers past several gaudy campgrounds, cabins, and cantinas into the canyon entrance, marked by a modest hand-painted sign that says bienvenidos. The locals you pass on your way are warm and open to conversation. While Mexicans started climbing the area in the late 1950S, hauling hemp ropes and maneuvering in Converse high tops, the Potrero didn't catch on as an international climbing destination until the mid-90S when the nearby Texas climbing mecca Hueco Tanks first closed-meaning that Potrero is still relatively untouched and not yet crowded. Its climbs are main- tained by the local expatriate climbing community, of which "Magic" Ed Wright is now the foundation. He updates his guidebook, in its tenth edition, every year. If you find a loose bolt, track down Ed-he lives in town and his wife runs the Quinta Graciela campground. Don't miss the classic mUlti-pitch routes, like Yankee Clipper (13 pitches), Estrellita (12 pitches), Space Boyz (11 pitches), and Crescent Moon Buttress (8 pitches with a tyro lean traverse) and sign the summit log stashed at the top of most of these climbs. There are also plenty of challenging and safe single-pitch routes on walls such as the Upper Virgin, the Moto, and Mini Super that allow moderate climbers to squeeze a week's worth of climbs out of Potrero. More experi- enced climbers have what seems to be endless choices. Climbs may look daunting from the ground, but once you pick your way through the scrub brush and cacti to the base of the cliff, routes are easily identified. There are usually secure holds, at least for your hands, exactly where you need them. Hard days of climbing at the Potrero are rewarded by homemade tortillas, the occasional soak in a nearby hot spring, and the company of an enthusiastic international climbing community. You can also find hiking and biking in the Potrero, as well as more climbing in nearby Huasateca Canyon, and many smaller crags. The Potrero is infamous for its "jungle mountaineer- ing," which is really just a sexy way to say climbing amidst rockfall. If you stay on the well-traveled routes and keep your helmet on, you're likely to remain safe. Avoid traditional routes that require gear placements, and getting too close to the party ahead of you. Just remember, this is rural Mexico: you can't depend on a helicopter rescue. Bring two 60 or 70 meter ropes for descents (there are no walk-offs), and watch for rat- tlesnakes, and scorpions. There are no local guides, so talk ill I UJ U1 ~ I '" 15 I i'! w LU U1 U In l- I 0: l- g o '" <0 S it UJ In <0 0: S d ~ '" o z I Q. ~ l- I '"