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VOLCANIC CRATERS GGG {) C9 o o "Behold, beyond are the fires of these mountains and the lands we have held in trust for you. Take them in your care and cherish them. They are your her- itage and the heritage of your children." So remarked Maori paramount chief Te Heuheu Tukino IV, in September 1887, upon gifting the Ruapehu, Tongariro, and Ngauruhoe volca- noes of New Zealand's north island to the British Crown. His act of uncanny vision led to the creation of New Zealand's first national park and ensured that sole ownership of his people's sacred lands would remain intact. Today, Tongariro National Park has dual World Heritage listings for its unique landscape and special cultural significance. You may rec- ognize some of the scenery there from the Lord of the Rings movie. One of the most spectacular treks in the park, the moderate, 25 mile Tongariro Northern Circuit, winds over Mt. Tongariro and around Mt. Ngauruhoe. Bringing you through beech forest and tussock, it eventually gives way to lava-filled glacial valleys and volcanic deserts of ash and pumice. You are delivered to a stark realm where reminders of the violent forces lingering below the earth's surface are everywhere. Steaming thermal vents spout billows of sulfur-scented vapor, and mineral-laden crater lakes hold impossibly green and blue waters. Only the hardiest grasses and shrubs survive in this harsh, lunar landscape where red and yellow lined craters offset the blue sky. Counted among New Zealand's ten finest "Great Walks" for its unparalleled scenery, the Tongariro Northern Circuit is usually completed in three to four days. An easily organized "do it yourself" venture, it requires dated Great Walks hut or campsite passes in-season (late October to early June). Off-season you'll need backcountry tickets for the huts, and camping is free. Passes can be purchased just prior to departure from a local Department of Conservation Visitor Center. Summer (December to March) is the safest and most popular time to walk the trail. In the winter it is a seri- 52 ous alpine trip requiring ice axes and crampons and subject to extreme weather and avalanche hazards.-Karen James I OUTFITTERS OUTDOOR EXPERIENCES, NEW ZEALAND Outdoor Experiences is the longest running operator of full'service, year·round guid- ed trips in the park. They are the only company licensed by the Department of Conservation to guide the Tongariro Crossing, a trek across the entire park. Client to guide ratio is approximately two to one, and solo trekkers can be accommodated. Three days; $390 per person for two or more people; year-round; 64'7-333-7099, www.tongarironz.com;outdoorexperiences@xtra.co.nz PEAK RISK MANAGEMENT, NEW ZEALAND Taupo·based Peak Risk Management offers year-round guided trips in Tongariro National Park, and a variety of activity packages outside of the park, including cours· es in mountaineering. They'll even arrange to pick you up at Auckland airport if you want. Emphasis is on safety. Two to three days; $338 per day; maximum group size seven; year-round; 64-21- 555-904, www.peakrisk.co.nz.info@getsafe.co.nz PETE OUTDOORS, NEW ZEALAND Pete Outdoors guides day and multiday trips in Tongariro National Park year·round. Owner Peter Zimmer is known as a local expert and provides trekking trips as well as biking trips. Overnight trip client to guide ratio ranges from roughly three to one, or five to one, depending on each group's needs. $128 per person per day (guide only, not including food, etc.); maximum group size six; year-round; 64-7-8954-445, peteoutdoors@xtra.co.nz