the Adventure Lifestyle magazine

WHITEWATER: CLASS I to IV Jamaica: CABARITA RIVER • • SEA KAYAKING burma: MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO 00 {) e Ridges, valleys, and streams are not the first things that come to mind when you think of jamaica, but spend a few weeks high in the island's mountains, and you'll soon understand that real adventure lies in the center of the island, not on its touristed coast. Local Rastafarians, who often seem to take an interest in your well-being, will point to the looming, mist-shrouded mountains and tell you "rain on mountain means river_" And so it is a great place to paddle_ A few miles inland from the island's southwestern coast (near Negri!), the Great George's Plain-a vast sugar cane plantation-meets the powerful and gorgeous Diablo Mountains_ This lush green range gives birth to the Cabarita River, which casually winds through the plan- tation with intermittent riffies and Class I and II rapids (III and IV at high water)_ The river is draped and canopied by 30-foot bamboo clusters, vine-covered trees, and all things jungle_ The clear, warm Cabarita offers a relaxing four-mile float through tropical paradise on the clear, and is an intimate alternative to western jamaica's teeming beach tourist scene_ It's a rare, cave-spring- spawned river consistently at 78 degrees, and navigable 12 months a year. Most people don't go to jamaica to physically challenge themselves and these rookie-manageable rapids fit that bill, mon, with exceptionally mellow rapids during most of the year. That said, during high water it's one of the most challenging rivers in the Caribbean. The nearby community north of Savannah La Mar is most Negril visitors' first encounter with local, funky jamaica-no-frills but col- orful, concrete cell stores, restaurants and bars that welcome foreigners with untrained/unpolished grace. The trip in and out of this river zone (a time-out/exit from tour or resort jocularity) in Westmoreland Parish is another adventure itself. Taking just 45 minutes from Negril it doubles as a sugarcane plantation safari on rough dirt roads, and on the return trip should include a stop for happy hour at a local tavern, where the jamaican mellow-as-molasses virtue takes hold. The Cabarita isn't a technical paddling trip; all you'll be asked to do is bring a bathing suit and sunscreen, and stay awake. This is, after all, jamaica. High season for tourism is December through April, when the river flow is slowest. From an economic and whitewater standpoint, the best time to go is off-season. The opti- mum months to visit for an adrenaline run are May through November. Hiring a guide will save you from getting lost, and save you money continued on page 70 OUTFITTERS EARTH RIVER EXPEDITIONS, USA Earth River has partnered with local outfitter jamaica Whitewater, which established trips on the river in 2001, and is the only outfitter permitted to guide there. jamaica Whitewater's four-mile river journey includes a three-hour paddle in inflatable kayaks or rafts, a spicy jerk-chicken (or veggie) lunch on a river island, and a happy hour stop. Earth River incorporates a run on the Cabarita River in a new multi- sport jamaican adventure, offered for the first time this year. Six hours (three on the river); $90 per person; customized trips and group trips for up to 30 people (four-person rafts); year-round; 800.643.2784, www.earthriver.com.earthriv@ulster.net; Jamaica Whitewater: 876.387.9342 GG 00 The Mergui Archipelago's more than 800 islands cover some 10,000 square miles off Burma's southwest- ern coast. Closed to foreign visitors for 50 years, this former pirate sanctuary in the Andaman Sea has been an explorable destination only since 1997. This not only means the islands (only 2 percent of which are inhabited) are a largely unspoiled tropical Eden, but that they are still home to one of the world's most unique cultures: the Moken peo- ple. Since time immemorial, Mergui's waters, along with the western shores of Thailand and Malaysia, have been home to the Moken's float- ing nomad families, who live most of the year on kabangs, houseboats made from big hollowed-out trees. Although the region's reputation as a dive destination is quickly growing, it is also a sea kayaker's holy grail, a medley of mountainous islands, craggy coastlines, beaches, steep-sided limestone pinnacles, con- ical upthrusts capped by forest and jagged rock formations. Some islands' shorelines are blessed with sea caves, their mouths gaping two stories high. The Mergui Archipelago is alive with parakeets, blue herons, horn- bills, flying foxes, jungle dogs and fish-eating eagles. Mangroves in the lakelike channel zone of Salet Galet, cupped between Lampi and Wa Ale Kyunn islands, are the domain of flying fish that bounce like skipped stones on the water. While it's possible to explore the Mergui Archipelago with only your mandatory government-appointed Burmese guide (about $25 a day), it's most cost- and time-effective to go through an outfitter, who can take care of visas (about $140) and permits (needed to kayak or dive in Mergui, about $100). The best time to go is November through April-the dry season. Even though it's "winter," expect temperatures to be a humid 86QF to 95Q F. Visitors fly in and out of Phuket, Thailand, then take a bus to the border town of Ranong, Thailand, and cross over to Kawthaung, Burma. Though the area has been stable for three years, overland borders are closed periodically without notice, usually due to problems with Northern Thailand. This means there's a very slight chance your trip could be delayed while you're stuck in Ranong or Kawthaung.-Lesa Griffith I OUTFITTERS SOUTH EAST ASIA LlVEABOARDS CO. (SEAL), THAILAND Run by an English-Thai family in Patong Beach, Phuket, SEAL is helping to intel- ligently negotiate the future of tourism in the Mergui Archipelago with officials in Yangon. Kayakers are taken by motorboat from Kawthaung to SEAL:s safari camp on Wa Ale Kyunn. From there, visitors kayak, snorkel and hike various islands. The trip includes kayak training for those who have not paddled before. Six days; $900 (including $100 visa); maximum group size 10; November to April; 66-76-340-406, www.seal-asia.com.info@seal-asia.com ASIAN TRAILS, THAILAND Founded in 1999 by two Europeans who are longtime Bangkok residents, Asian Trails now has offices throughout Southeast Asia, staffed largely by locals. Clients meet in Phuket and make the long journey together to base camp on Lampi Island. The main tent at camp is done up with teak dining tables, and bamboo mats and Thai cushions for lounging. Trips include snorkeling, paddling and trekking. Seven days; $983 (including $100 visa); maximum group size 10; November-May; 800-473-4576, www.asiantrails.com.res@asiantrails.com 46 5 d f Vi :t: ~------------------------------------------------------~~

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