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000 00 Picture this : At your feet, a blue tarp covers frozen chickens, loaves of bread, and other supplies-all bound for Nagigia Island. You sit on a wooden plank sandwiched between two large smiley Fijian boatmen. Cramped? Yes. But it's a good spot because the men will shield you from the spray of the choppy seas on the 45-minute journey. As your small outboard skips along the crystalline blue water, your eyes trace the outline of the land. Lush green hills plunge into the sea. You're a mere one-hour flight from the heavily-touristed town of Nadi on the main Fijian island of Viti Levu, but already worlds away. With its 80-degree water and powerful reef break waves, Fiji is a world-class surfing destination. The country is made up of more than 300 separate tropical islands, and surf spots abound with plenty of options for both beginners and experts. Conditions are best during the dry season from March to October when south swells march up through the Tasman Sea between eastern Australia and New Zealand. Swells are less frequent during the wet season of November to February, though tropical cyclones often gen- erate large waves during that time. Bottom line: There's surf year-round in Fiji, but you'll be gambling a bit if you visit in the wet season. Because of the country's wave-magnet status, some of the most famous Fijian spots, like Cloudbreak on Tava rua Island, have been overex- posed in surf magazines and are so well known now that they've become crowded and expensive. Luckily you can still escape the mainstream fray by heading to spots like Nagigia Island. It requires quite a bit of effort to get there, but that's the point. The logic follows: Tough logistics equals fewer surfers, which means more empty waves for you to enjoy. Less tourism also holds the promise of a more authentic Fijian experience. Situated half a mile off the island of Kadavu, Nagigia is a tiny atoll of palm trees and sharp volcanic rock. Some locals hypothesize Nagigia may actually have started as the peak of nearby Nabukelevu mountain before it was blown off by volcanic activity and deposited in its current location. Whatever the case, Nagigia is blessed. The weather is warm, some- times hot, but tempered by strong ocean breezes. Bordering the island on one side is a maze of reef with technicolored tropical fish-ripe for snorkeling or fishing. And situated at the tip of the island lays King Kong Left, a fast hol- low reef break. Farther offshore is King Kong Right, a reeling tube for advanced surfers-both were named after King Kong which was filmed on nearby islands in the 1930S. Other spots are more manageable for beginners, like Little Daku and Middle Daku, and can be found in a nearby cove. Nagigia's friendly boatmen are always willing and ready to take you out to surf one of the nearby breaks. Paddling out from the island is possible but the sharp lava rock can wreak havoc on your feet. Overall, the surf in Nagigia is a couple notches less perfect than, say, surf in the most famed Fijan Island and resort Tavarua, but on the right swell, Nagigia's King Kong Left can be epic, and best of all, virtually empty. Nagigia Island Resort, the only place to stay on Nagigia Island, can accom- modate 25 people, so that means there are never more than that many surfers scattered among the five breaks. Surfers riding the waves around Nagigia are required to pay a village surfing fee of approximately $5 -the resort takes care of this for guests_ When you're not surfing, the days are spent hanging out in ham- mocks, fishing for skipjack and albacore, and snorkeling among the reefs just outside the bungalows. One of the best parts about Nagigia is the opportunity for travel- ers to interact with the local culture. Visitors at the resort are always welcome GGGG 000 @@@ I AVERAGE WAVE HEIGHT: 4 TO 8 FEET at the nearby village of Nabukelevu-iRa and getting there is simple. The resort's boatmen operate small outboards across the lagoon to the island; then you follow a palm-lined path from the beach into the village, where twenty-some-odd cinderblock huts with tin roofs surround a large church. Many people go there to hike Nabukelevu Mountain, attend a church service, or just to hang out with the villagers. Most Fijians speak English, so time is spent singing, laughing, and learning about their world_ If you're lucky, you may be invited to join the village elders for a traditional kava ceremony. Villagers gather in a circle sitting cross-legged on large woven mats. Loud rhythmic claps echo through the room as each per- son partakes in the ritual drinking of a milky liquid made from kava root. Be careful though, the locals enjoy pushing tourists to drink "high tide" bowls, or very large servings of kava, which will make your head hazy and leave you lethargic the next morning. And of course, nothing adds insult to injury like waking up to offshore winds and perfectly groomed peaks when you're too hung over to surf.-Mark Anders I OUTFITTERS NAGIGIA SURF RESORT, FIJI The only place to stay on Nagigia Island is the Nagigia Surf Resort, which is also referred to as a surf camp. However, it is more posh than your typical camp and bun- galow experience. The resort staff at the resort caters to surfers year-round and pro- vides transport to and from the airport ($29), daily boat rides to the surf ($12.50), surfing lessons for beginners (the first one is complimentary), as well as fishing excursions. Lodging is $77 a night, and meals are $26 per day. (www.fijisurf.com. sales@fijisurf.com, 679-3315-774). Waterways Surf Travel offers all-inclusive packages to Nagigia Island, and can arrange your flight to and accommodations at the resort. A seven-day trip starts at $1650, including airfare (www.waterwaystravel.com. waterways@waterways travel.com, 800-928-3757)_ , ~BLUE.COM Want to learn more about Fiji? Read online about BLUE Writer-at-Large Bruce Northam's adventures with kava and wild rapids at blue.com/V 4N1/fiji ii: i:i :I: U o U 0: Vi ~ 40 ~----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------~ ~