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Consider a multiday bike tour slicing between glacier-cut val- leys, circling island-strewn lakes, skirting through wild bog- lands, and yet never escaping a spectacular, rolling cloud- scape. Along these virtually empty roads, you'll find sandy beaches scuffed by one set of footprints (yours), castle ruins, and granite mountains leaning over the sea-not to mention an ample sampling of pubs perfect for rejuvenating before the next day's toil. Based on a recent history of peaceful times, Ireland's northern region has arrived as a world-class bike- touring destination-and possibly one of the least-trammeled, most-accessible destinations in Western Europe. With a wingspan of only 190 miles from east to west, the island's scal- loped perimeter boasts miles of coastline. The interior reveals such gems as Lough Neagh, the largest freshwater lake in the British Isles; more than 70 National Nature Reserves; and a young, hospitable population-over half of the 5.6 million res- idents are under 30 years old-eager to redeem the fair coun- try's challenged reputation. More tour de force than short bites of strenuous climbs and death-wish descents, this ride is about gliding great distances. But don't be fooled into thinking you're in for a leisure ride in the saddle. While not the most imposing moun- tains in the world, the Derryveagh, Mourne, and Antrim are just a few of the Irish ranges to begin climbing skyward less than 10 miles from the coast. The close proximity of undulating coastline to mountainous terrain allows for members within the same group to customize the day's journey. Must-see routes include the Republic of Ireland's northern Donegal Bay coast. Considered the most rugged, most remote region, highlights include tracing Atlantic Road Drive on the Rosguill Peninsula, or hiking to Errigal, a white, quartzite cone that rises to a height of over 2,400 feet, and to such lore-ridden locales as the Poisoned Glen, found deep in the Derryveagh Mountains. Continue on to Northern Ireland's Causeway Coast, where the namesake Giant's Causeway (heavy-treaded by the tourist circuit, but nonetheless breathtaking) will challenge your conception of natural rock formations as you gaze upon 40,000 hexagonal basalt columns tapering into the sea. A short divergence from Antrim Coast Road to Fair Head provides rugged terrain and a line-drive view of Rathlin Island and Scotland. The waterfalls of Glenariff Forest Park are another notable destination. One quick transatlantic flight (five hours from New York) drops you in either Dublin or Belfast, with internal flights also available to Derry and other cities. If arriving from Britain or Scotland, high-speed ferries are a good, bike-friendly option. Ireland's seasons afford suitable cycling all year round, thanks to southwesterly winds and a strong influence from the Gulf stream. But don't forget that waterproof, breathable :lE shell-grass can only be this green for one reason. ~ No need to pawn those lucky charms, traveling ~ through Northern Ireland is cheaper than other parts of ~ Europe. Most outfitter-led trips feature nights in cozy inns and ~ hotels, but there are solo options out there for the tent-loving. ~ Bring your own bike or rent with ease. Most outfitters employ ~ a fleet of fine hybrids "for hire," as they say.-Mary Anne Potts s: 34