the Adventure Lifestyle magazine

MADAGASCAR: lemur watching, ranomafa ANTARCTICA: artie ecology CUBA: percussion + dance, havana MEXICO: whale watching, sea of cortez RUSSIA: space adventures, star city PUERTO RICO: yoga, culebra THE GO 00 o e @@@ LEARN TRIP LEMURS madagascar: RANOMAFA Isolated from the east coast of mainland Africa by 200 miles of Indian Ocean, Madagascar is literally a world unto itself. Every quirk of nature seemingly resides on this island, from massive stands of bulbous baobabs to over 30 species of wide-eyed, monkeylike lemurs. These prosimians (primitive primates), along with nearly all Madagascar's mammals and reptiles, and about 80 percent of its 10,000 species of plants, are endemic. The only other spot in the world with lemurs is the nearby Comoros Islands, though only a couple of species can be found there. Lemur tracking ranks as one of the main draws to Madagascar's 22 national parks and reserves, which cover nearly 3 percent of the island. Other forested areas are under duress, as locals clear vast regions to gather wood for fuel and practice slash-and-burn agriculture. In some regions, lemurs are also hunted for food. These practices have caused devastation of the populations of lemurs, leaving all species either on the endangered list or vulnerable. For guaranteed sightings, travelers can head south to the easily accessible Berenty Reserve, home to five species of lemur including the famed dancing lemurs (Verreaux's sifa- ka), named for their sideways gait. At the small forest reserve Peri net, just a few hours drive from the crowded, chaotic cap- ital Antananarivo, live the largest of the lemurs, the indri, which are known for their morning wails. Lemurs can also be spotted in some of the country's more remote parks. Adventure seekers can hire guides with 4WD vehicles to the extraterrestrial-like landscape of the Tsingy de Bemaraha, site of the world's largest stand of karst pinnacles and a haven for 11 species of lemurs. ANGAP, the National Association for the Management of Protected Areas, administers the country's parks and reserves. Permits are required for visitors, which can be purchased at entrances to the parks or at AN GAP offices in Antananarivo. Guides are also required, with no more than four to six people per guide, depending on the park. Be aware that most of these lemur-knowledgeable guides speak French, although a few at each park do speak some English. Many international organizations and universities are helping with lemur research and conservation efforts. One of the best ways to help preserve these diminishing species is to par- ticipate in a research project. Patience and hard work will help form an intimate understanding of these popular creatures, mak- ing the long journey to view lemurs well worth the time. Given the country's undeveloped infrastructure, the best way to travel to various lemur destinations is to fly. Air Madagascar offers service to many of these destinations, but cancellations, overbooked flights, and heavy delays are com- mon with the country's small fleet of planes. For a two or three-week trip, it's best to concentrate on one or two regions at most. Though travel throughout the country is generally safe, a controversial presidential election in December 2001 led to a rash of violent protests. The situation has returned to normal, except that a recent spate of floods has added to the economic strife in the country. The ideal time of year for travel and lemur viewing is between April and November. Rainy season lasts roughly from November through March, though there are many seasonal vari- ations throughout the country. Most lemurs are active in the morning, but can be seen until dusk, save for a noontime nap. Nocturnal species, including the woolly, mouse and aye-aye lemurs, are a treat to see on a magical moonlit hike. -Marlene Goldman .. " o z '" " .. -' o w Z ~ 0: 5 Vi :I: a. 26

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