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I WHITEWATER: CLASS III TO V bhutan: AMO CHHU To preserve the kingdom's ecological treasures and the purity of its culture, Bhutan formalized a comprehensive permitting process for travelers in 1974. The government still exercises tight control over tourism-allowing just over 5,600 foreign visitors into this Himalayan treasure last year. The result: a country half the size of Indiana is still being discovered, and riverrunners, who have only recently begun to explore the pad- dling potential here, have hit upon an unspoiled whitewater paradise. The Class III-plus Amo Chhu in the newly opened Haa Valley District was scouted only last fall. Much like Nepal's Seti River in strength and geography, this maiden river is unique in its seclusion and preservation. From Jyenkhana, a small community on the banks of the Haa, it is a four-day trek through some of the least popu- lated and best-preserved forest in the Himalayas, to reach the put-in where you wi ll begin a three-day, 26-mile paddle down fast, pristine waters. From the rhododendron and virgin broad leaf forests crowning the 12,000-foot Tego La Pass to the I OUTFITTERS NEED MORE ADVENTURE, USA This six-year-old operator is the only guiding service running the river at this time. Its Amo Chhu trip is the result of five years of explo- ration and work with Bhutan'S Department of Tourism. By blending adventure and culture, Need More Adventure guide Nick Williams aims to maximize paddlers' Bhutan experience. Kayakers are required to have their own paddle, helmet, life jacket, spray skirt, float bags, etc. '4 days, $4,400 (10 percent discount for groups of 10 or more); maximum group size 12 to '4 (depends on the number of kayakers vs. rafters); November-December; 877-900-9091, www.needmoreadventure.com.nick@needmoreadventures.com subtropical jungle before the take-out in the town of Phuentsholing (elevation: 600 ft) , on the Indian border, you will traverse the spectrum of Bhutan's diverse ecological zones. Along the way, you can beach the boats and explore the remote villages and jungles of these beautiful undeveloped areas. The Amo Chhu itself doesn't require a long paddling resume-Class III kayakers with reasonable expectations will manage fine. In fact, the better known and more frequently run Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu, upstream from Punakha in east- ern Bhutan, pose a greater challenge. Under its strict tourism policy, the Royal Government of Bhutan requires all visitors to arrange their trip through a tour operator and submit a pre- paid, preplanned itinerary to secure an entry visa. If you pre- fer not to join a group tour, you may customize your own trip with a local operator, but once you've nailed down the itiner- ary it is difficult to change it on the fly. -Darren Foster