SACRED PLAYGROUNDS::
Surfers are what biologists might consider an indicator species. Much like a fragile marine animal whose population fluctuations indicate the overall health of the world's oceans, surfers are like human guinea pigs, paddling through the confluence of river and sea. They duck- dive, carve bottom turns, and wipe out in what increasingly is begin- ning to look like the world's toilet, and when they get sick, you can take that as an indication that the water is pretty dirty.