celebrate in a magical way. still
__ ~ .. .ml~~ •• "'" with ancient tradition."
way to I sla J anitzio to watch traditional dancing and a parade of canoes. Scents of the famous thinly-battered lake minnows, frying in gallons of liquid fat entwine with the aroma of simmering apple cider. The big draw IS the cemetery of pine-
needle-covered graves attended by mourning friends and relatives. People clear weeds from gray-splotched gravestones, then wash, paint and repair masonry. Women place vibrant-hued flowers and blue- and-pink plastic- ribboned bouquets with photos of Mary and tormented Jesus. Families bathed in candlelight pray for their relatives and eat graveside meals which turn into midnight vigils.
Their hearts are on their cement memorials. The next day in the cemetery, bittersweet
chanting echoes from all sides of the brick walls. The prayers of relatives are an aural balm, an ethereal Reace expressed through humble gestures in honor of the dead. -Marc Bennett
, I information: Mexican Government Tourism Office, 800-446-3942, 212-755-726 1, 213-35 1-2069 transport: Bus and train rides from Mexico City's Terminal Poniente take fi ve hours and cost about US$1 7 fo r first class •
