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For Your Bike: The few bicycle repair shops found along the Great Ocean Road are never near when a spoke breaks or a t ire mysteriously goes flat. Carry extra tubes, tires, or a patch kit, a small tire pump, spare parts, such as brake pads, spokes and a chain, and a smal l tool kit. How to carry your kiP If you have a basket like the Wicked Witch of the West's bicycle sported in The Wizard of Oz, throw it in the trash-if you haven't already. Today, touring panniers come in countless varieties to fit your needs. Most rear- and front-tire panniers are top- or side-accessible and mount to sturdy lightweight metal racks that are easi ly attached to most bicycles. A handlebar pannier, to carry frequently used cameras, sunscreen, high-energy snacks, a first aid kit, maps and guidebooks, is also helpful. A trailer to carry your gear, or a little one that does not pedal, is an alternative to panniers. Packing for the Great Ocean Road is a L _______________ ~I...-..!:.a;~!8~!A.---L--J equally extravagant bed and breakfasts are challenge. The state For Your Body: of Victoria to $175 per night. temperatures generally do not drop below 30 degrees or exceed 85 degrees. Always carry a lightweight f leece jacket and pants, a rain jacket and 'pants, gloves, a knit or baseball cap to wear under your helmet, padded cyc ling shorts and tights, comfortable cotton socks, sunscreen and sunglasses. The Route: Cycling the entire 200 mi les from Torquay to Warrnambool, or vice versa, can take from three to seven days, depending on how many miles you choose to ride each day and how many nights you choose to stay in a town . From Torquay to Apol lo Bay, the Great Ocean Road hugs the Southern Ocean. The first in land stretch begins on the edge of Otway National Park, rises through Melba Gully State Park and returns to the coast near Port Campbell National Park, home to a series of mind-boggling rock formations, inc luding the Twelve Apostles and the toppled remains of London Bridge. Along the stretch from Peterborough west, the ocean is occasionally heard but rarely seen again until Warrnambool. The Great Ocean Road passes through more than a dozen towns, with populations ranging from less than 1,000 to more than 25,000. Each town is as diverse as the amenities it offers. The average distance between most population centers is less than 30 miles. During the summer, veh icles carrying holidaymakers, tourist-laden buses and Melbourne day-trippers frequent ly crowd the 34 plentifu l, expensive and usually require experiences four distinct seasons-often all in the same day. Whi le the weather can reservations in advance. Cozy, self-conta ined rooms with ocean views range from $75 and does change often and quickly along the Great Ocean Road, year-round Where to Eat: The Great Ocean Road offers cu linary delights for the most finicky of palates and wallets. Apollo Bay has excellent gourmet delis and a health food store. Torquay and Airey's Inlet have fine Mexican restaurants to fuel you for another day of cycl ing. Home to severa l tasty bakeries, coffee shops, delis and cafes, and upscale Mediterranean, Thai and seafood restaurants, Lorne wil l meet a hungry cyc list's every need. Even spartan Port Campbell has good pizza, pasta and sandwich shops. Grocery stores and outdoor markets, offeri ng locally grown fresh fruit and vegetables, are also plentifu l along the Great Ocean Road. Go with a Group: If you don't want to go solo, here are some outfitters who wil l lead your way. Topbike Tours Box 1144, Hampton North, Victoria 3188, Australia www.topbike.com.au/ridegor.htm Bushsports Box 6543, Parramatta Business Centre, New South Wales 2150, Australia www.bushsports.com.au otherwise peacefu I road . The myriad of parks, forests, surf spots, and cycling and hiking trai ls, however, leave plenty of room for all adventures duri ng every season. The odds are good that you' l l pass another intrepid cyclist or backpacker. !l...----------..... --... o Where to Rest: The length of the Great Ocean Road is littered with accommodation to suit every budget. For cyc lists who like to rough it , campgrounds and caravan parks are commonplace. A spot at each cost from $10 ~---1 to $20 a night. Affordable backpacker hostels and guest houses are located in the towns of Lorne, Apol lo Bay, Cape Otway and Port Campbell. Prices for a comfortable bunk bed with shared bath range from $15 to $30 per night. Blankets and pi llows are provided. Sheets and sleeping bags are not. To obtain membership information, access www.yha.com.au. Most pubs offer similar overnight accommodation, but rare ly advertise. Simply ask the barkeep if beds are ava ilable. Three, four and f ive star hotels and

