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Swimming with the dolphins at Kaikoura, you'll look to the sprouting green foothills above, glance at the gray cetaceans beside you, and then ask yourself why you bother to work, pay bills, and get haircuts. In New Zealand, where volcanoes meld with rainforests next to sheep pastures, moments of truth fill up hours of time. New Zealand's largest city, Auckland, is the logical starting point for your trip, and it's also the only city with direct flights to the United States. It's also a great party town, with the best in the country. From Auckland, rent a car and drive south to the Waitomo Caves. In addition to the usual collection of stalactites and stalagmites you'll find yourself surrounded by little lights poking out of the cave wall. These are glowworms, insect larvae that emit light to collect food. Next, head to Tongarino National Park to trek the base Mt Ruapeha, an active volcano. No need to pack a tent-there are f ive well-equipped (mattresses, gas cookers, and toilets) huts along the way. Book ahead through greatwalksbookings@doc.govt.nz. New Zealand 's South I sland, less populous and more rugged than the north, deserves at least two weeks of your time. Queenstown makes an excellent base camp. From there, you're less than a day's drive to Te Anau, the starting point for the storied Milford Track. Set at the bottom of a glacial fjord of the same name, Milford is a 33-mile, three-day hike weaving along the Clinton and Arthur rivers. Dense forests, numerous waterfalls, prairies, and high mountain passes-all set against the 54 backdrop of sheer granite walls. To hike Milford, you'll need to apply for a permit from the visitor center in Te Ana~ or contact New Zealand's Great Walks Booking desk (greatwalksbooking@doc.govt.nz). Be sure to rese rve well in advance. Summer season (October through May) permits go on sale in July and cost US$43 for four days/three nights on the track. Use of huts is included. Or, for US$700 (high season price), Milford Track Guided Walks can lead you up the track, bunking in private cabins with gourmet meals and laundry machines along the way. It's not cheap, but the guides tend to be well-informed South Island locals happy to impart their knowledge. North of Queenstown lies Mt Cook National Park, home to the Tasman Glacier. 17 miles long and reachable only by air, don't leave New Zealand without an afternoon hiking or skiing the Tasman (Alpine Guides www.heliskiing.co.nzl). Your day will start at the Mt Cook airport where pilots will strap your skis under the wing of a ski-equipped Cessna 180. After a short flight around Mt Cook (12,316 feet) the plane dips down into the glacial valley (5,700 feet) and comes to a smooth landing atop the glacier. Hop out, grab your skis (snowboarding isn't possible due to sidestepping required on the trip), and glide through miles of untouched powder. Have lunch in a 5-foot-high ice cave illuminated by blue sunlight. After lunch, helicopters materialize to transport you to the opposite end of the glacier for another few hours of skiing before heading home. All this, for US$270. NEW ZEALAND TRAVELER FACTS POPULATION DENSITY: 23 people per square mile POPULATION: 3,819,162 AREA: 166,693 square miles LANGUAGES SPOKEN: English, Maori PEOPLE: New Zealand European 74.5%, Maori 9.7%, other European 4.6%, Pacific Islander 3.8%, Asian and others 7.4% HOW FAR: From NY 8,830 miles; From SF 6,530 miles HOW MUCH: From NY 20 hours, United Sl,382 RT, Air New Zealand $1,978 RT; From SF 16 hours; Danlas $1,062 RT. United $1,102 www.airnewzealand.com 800ยท262-1234 www.qantas.com 800-227-4500 MAIN ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES: Hiking, paddling, skiing, canyoning, biking OUTFITTERS: Dvorak Expeditions www.dvorakexpeditions.com; Ultimate Hikes www.rouleburn.co.nz