the Adventure Lifestyle magazine

In the Northern Hemisphere, the ice climbing season generally starts in December and ends in March. Colder, higher elevations tend to have longer seasons than lower elevation seeps and waterfalls. Precipitation frequency and freeze-thaw cycles playa big role in route conditions by region as the season progresses. Check up with the local mountain shop to get conditions (see mountain shops listed in specific climbing destinations below). Bear in mind that ice climbing season often overlaps with avalanche season because the weather patterns that produce ice also produce snow. Since avalanches naturally follow the same paths that frozen water does down a mountain they present a real danger. To get the latest details, search for "avalanche forecasting" with your favorite search engine, then refine your search by region . Regional forecasting is often done by local experts and updated weekly. The reports are not standardized but typica lly provide a weather forecast , an evaluation of snowpack and an indication of how much caution should be used while in the area . If you plan to ice climb abroad, contact the American Alpine Club for international conditions and local connections at www.AmericanAlpineClub.org. They also have information on guides, first ascents and a great cl imbing and Ice climbing requires balance, some endurance and strength. A common misconception is that pull-ups will save you. While the ability to crank off three dozen pull-ups certainly will not hurt you, most climbers find that efficient technique is much more helpful. Like rock climbing, good ice climbing technique pivots on developing maximum strength and then using it economically while climbing . .. ..;.:....--""'-"'= Two fundamental ways to conserve strength are 1) avoid hanging on your ice tools with your arms bent and, 2) keep your heels low. Keeping your arms straight uses your skeletal system rather than your fatigue-prone muscles to hold you to the ice. Keeping your heels down maximizes the gripping power of your crampons and prevents your calves from getting overworked. Objective dangers like avalanches, rockfall, wei;lther and exposure are variables ....... """ .... """' ..... _.,,;,,""""'=="""' ......... outside of a climber's control. Skill, experience and knowledge are his or her tools to manage these dangers. It is entirely your decision whether to start a route. A strong climber may be able to finesse the completion of a route on the edge of his or her ability because he or she is fit, experienced and determined, but no amount of fitness, experience or determination can argue with the deadly force of an avalanche. Naturally- occurring or cl imber-induced avalanches can happen whenever snow loads on steep hillsides. Evaluate all object dangers. Because no amount of good intention 1'-::-:-:::-:'7~::-=--:-:-::-":-:-:-::-:-:'~=:­ can undo a poor choice, all new ice climbers should start with a guide or someone who can judge these dangers-someone they can trust. 1 1 Before leaving the warmth of civilization, determine the best combination of clothes for the climbing segments. It's a good idea to layer. You'll get warm wh ile climbing, but there is a lot of standing before a climb .. _________ ....;.. ____ ....;.._ (especially when working with unfamiliar gear). Ice is typically found in the coldest part of the topography. Waterfalls, alpine ice and gully ice flows most I~I=~II===~=~ frequently exist in the shade. Anticipate temperature and activity level fluctuations and bundle up before you feel cold . Avoid baggy or loose clothes that can get caught in your crampons at the crux. And stay away from cotton ! Fleece layers are the most useful: they keep you warm by wicking moisture away from your skin. A down jacket warms you while you are inactive. Bring a pair of gloves for climbing that have good dexterity and wear warm mittens while evaluating the route or belaying your partner' llliiii~~I;l Waterproof, breathable pants and jacket are key in snow or rain . ;=::= ==1:1 1Im._

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