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The sublime scenery of Fiordland National Park was carved by huge gla ciers, the remnants of which can st,ill be seen in the highest peaks of New Zealand s Southern Alps. The landscape these glaciers left behind-vast, granite-walled U-shaped valleys, fjord s and mountains that rise thousands of feet stra ight up out of the sounds-seems plucked out of the imagination of JRR Tolkien Iso much so that it served as a back- drop for a recent fi lming of Lord of the Rings) Every slope becomes a waterfall when it rains and the primordial rainforest is a wild riot of tree ferns, rare flightless birds and bizarre plant species. Crossing right throug h this amazing landscape is the Milford Track, part of the elaborate trail system by which the pre-European Maori brought jade lused in war clubs and ceremonial objectsl from the west coast of the south island and dispersed it throughout New Zealand . The Spectator of London dubbed the Milford Track "the finest walk in the world" in 1908. Most Kiwis still main- ta in the truth of this claim and 12,000 walkers a year come from allover the world to see for themselves, With 16 feet of rain a year, getting wet is almost a given on the Milford Track. But this may be the world's on ly tra il where hikers wish for rain because it pumps up the countless waterfalls to their full beauty, Even when it's not ra ining in Fiord land, it can be hard to stay dry. Sutherland Falls INZ's highest at 2,067 feetl is one of the highlights of the tra il and one hiker warns that "even though they're on the other side of a small lake and it's a sunny day, you still have to wear rain gear to approach the fal ls because the spray is so powerful." Fiordland's endless rain and moisture are made bearable by the cozy Department of Conservation huts where all hikers are required to stay, The nighttime camaraderie in the huts, which provide mattresses, bunk beds, stoves, to ilets and water for up to 40 peo- ple, is an unexpected pleasure in the backcountry, The tra il can only be hiked from Te Anau to Milford. Permits- US$47 during their mid-summer high season IDecember 1 to March 131- are required to hike the Milford, and you should book far in advance, You can't just walk onto "the fines t walk in the world" and, for some, the regu - lation and development of the trail may detract from its grandeur.