the Adventure Lifestyle magazine

WINTER ESCAPES offers a cultural experience. "Much more so than Fiji, Tahiti or Hawaii ," explains Shane Mcintyre, a surfer and surf expedition videographer. " It's got a more unique feel. You really get a sense of how the people live." The island is mostly Christian and ruled by a king. Sundays are especially lively with elaborate ch urch services. " I got no bad vibes from the Tongans. Not a one," says Shane. "They're loving, and humble. They're willing to spend time with you without asking anything in return. " You remember the Tonga Kid7 You know, Superfly Snooka's mate. Well, he's no anomaly. According to Shane, "The Tongans are big. Even fifteen- year-old girls have bigger biceps than me. " (Shane's a six-foot-three surfer.) Along with the behemoth Tongans, the island's full of huge fruit bats-yeah, the nocturnal ones-which are much bigger than their generic cousins. But perhaps strangest, and most interesting about Tonga is the phenomenon of fakaleiti. This is where if a family has too many boys, the youngest one is raised as a girl. The boy wears dresses, learns how to do domestic chores, and is discouraged from playing sports. Shane explains " It's really weird, you've got these ripped 250 pound Tongans and these huge bats everywhere, and then you got these huge transvestites saying hi to you in really high voices." Sounds like the Greenwich Village Halloween Parade. Ha'atafu in the northwest has the best beaches, and the best surf is on the northwest fingertip of Tonga at Kolovai , where you can stay at the Good Samaritan Inn (starting at US$20, no phone number, ask when you get there) . Tonga is not the best place to learn how to surf. The island is flat so no freshwater runoff from mountains and resulting streams can get into the sea and break down the coral. Shane explains, "You literally have to walk with your booties on the reef to get out to the breaks. Or you can sort of skim along the top of the water but you'll probably tear up your board. " Not to mention the sea snakes, cone shells and stonefish that patrol the reef. Not fa r from the coast, there's a bunch of small islands which you can travel to by boat either for the day or, if you organize a return trip, for a few days, with an island al l to yourself. Cost: $0; vegetation on island: O. There might only be a coconut tree or two- so bring your own food. The French Polynesian island of Bora Bora is 1,468 miles east of Tonga. "The second you step off the plane in Bora Bora, there's this amazing energy," says Joanna Shaw, psyched to be speaking of the place she calls Eden. " It's hard to describe, there's a kind of passion here." In Bora Bora, it's all about the water ... it's intoxicating. So get wasted on good diving, sailing and, what might be the most popular highs, water-skiing and wakeboarding. It will keep you coming back to this still glassy Pacific water. For a good deal on a half-hour pull, ask one of the many friendly local boat owners rather than settling on a large operator, which, in the tourist-loaded sections, could cost you US$lOO. The fishing is also great here and you can't leave the island without jumping in the water with a Polynesian to help him feed bloody fish heads to sharks or to manta rays the size of humans. Three peaks, all at about 2,000 feet, rise to give you decent hiking opportunities, though it's tough going because the mountains are cheesy (soft). As far as nightlife, the island is pretty quiet. There are many deluxe places to choose from. Check out the Hotel Bora Bora (US$775, 011-689-604-411, www.amanresorts.com/bora_m.html). For US$775 a night, you can get a room with a glass floor built over the water. You can also rent houses by the week for about US$500. There are several more affordable places such as Chez Robert+ Tina (US$35 per night, 011-689-677-292) and many travelers opt to cook their own food. Staples here are fish, rice, mangos and coconuts. Join the Polynesians for drumming and dancing on one of the matus-the sandy little islands surrounding Bora Bora. continued from page 73 exactly that, is Kosrae in Micronesia. They're only just beginning to implement tourism and they're doing it in a very environmentally-friendly way. Another island with the overused tag "undiscovered," though it's Kosrae, along with the other islands of Micronesia, is located in the Pacific Ocean, not far from Guam, and is shaped like a sleeping woman. Reef, rainforest and white "no trash" sand beaches provide slammin' diving, kayaking and canoeing opportunities. Paddle the ancient highways of Kosarae, rivers through magnificant mangrove forests. You'll start at the edge of the sea and paddle into the heart of the island. Some of the waterways are only a few feet wide. You can rent a traditional dugout canoe or a sea kayak from Kosrae Village, which is also the on ly place to stay (US$95 per night, 011-691-370- 3483, www.kosraevil lage.com). You'll get your own bungalow that's plenty comfortable. The undiscovered island menu includes fish , of course, taro, beans and rice. The people in Kosrae are notably friendly and hospitable (undiscovered , remember7), and have a genuine curiosity. They're very isolated, there's really no TV, so their contact with western culture is limited. Guess they won't get the Gilligan's Island reference. The only ai rline that flies from North America to Kosrae is Continental (800-634-5555, www.coolvacations.com). Back near North America again, the developed but still paradisiacal Hawaii is a good choice. Hawaii is America dropped into a tropical sea . The four main islands (Hawaii, Oahu, Maui and Kauai) offer all the conveniences an adventure traveler could ask for: well-maintained campsites, kayaks, surfboards, mountain bikes to rent, and varied topography on which to play. The cheapest and most exhilarating way to experience Hawaii is to camp. All you need is a permit from the county or state park offices in the main towns to stay for $5 a night. (Make sure you get your permits before you get to the campsite.) Each island has its tourist congested sections, but get off the beaten track and experience active paradise. On Maui, avoid the tourists of Lahaina and find good surf by driving up the west coast and literally pulling off the road anywhere. The surf and snorkling beckon. On the east coast, near Paia, are some of the world's best spots to windsurf. Beginners bewarel Maui also offers great hiking. One of the most amazing hikes is the two-mile trail from the Seven Pools outside of Hana. You 'll be hiking through thick bamboo forests, which conceal the light of day, to get to a gigantic waterfall. Camp on the black sand beaches of Waianapanapa State Park, four miles outside of Hana, for $5 a night. Hopping islands, and adding a few stars to your accommodation, Kauai must not be missed. The "Garden Island" is smaller and less-developed than the other th ree main islands. Mountains and forest line the 825-square mile island, making for some of the best hiking in Hawaii. The most popular is the 22-mile (roundtrip) route along the Na Pali Coast: the Kalalau Trail. The trail is steep and can get slippery in the winter rains, but the views over the waves breaking on the pristine north coast are breathtaking. Hike the trail in a (long) day to get to a wide beach with a waterfa ll at one end. Lush ra inforests fu ll of guava fruit and hibiscus flowers tumble down from the sheer mountains to meet the beach where you can swim naked to your heart's content. For star-studded accommodation, take your sleeping bag to Polihale, a long, wide white beach on the dry west coast. Here you can surf by day and sleep under the stars at night. Often, the only way you'd know other people are around is by the distant light of campfires. The swells here are best in winter, but when storms or big swells come up, even the locals don't go out. Not even to swim. Strong rip currents will quickly sweep you to Japan. There's nothing better, after a day on the waves, than taking an outdoor shower as the sun's going down, then cooking dinner over an open fire pit. •

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