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BANK INSURANCE 17 TIPS ON TRAVELING IN THE OCCUPIED TERRITORIES TEXT: ALBERT PODELL Although the West Bank is one of the world's most interesting places to visit-you ' ll see starkly unforgettable landscapes, a remarkable culture, crushing poverty next to hopeful entrepreneurship, raw political force in action, and a nation in the process of being born-it's also one of the most dangerous. Since we like to hang on to our readers and don't want you becoming part of the mounting mortality stats. If you travel there, remember these tips: l. Get a very detailed and current map of Israel and the Occupied Territories so you know exactly which side you're on at all times; the borders are confusing, and so are the check points. 2. Check the daily radio reports on the location of the latest clashes. 3. Do not get mistaken for an Israeli: a. Stick a foreign flag on your backpack or rental car. Preferred nationalities include Swiss, Canadian, Swedish and Norwegian. (The US isn't always popular with the locals.) b. Dress like a parody of a Western-world tourist-loud colors, a Mets or Jets cap, visible brand-name bottled water, a guidebook in English , a copy of blue. c. Don't shout, shove, cut lines, talk loudly or abusively or be a smart-ass-all traits West Bankers commonly ascribe to Israelis. d. SMILE. (Israelis rarely do on Palestinian turf.) 4. Since the loca ls don't always draw careful distinctions during the heat of an intifada, don't proclaim any Jewishness- no yarmulkes, no gold-chain chais or Stars of David. 5. If you're a Christian (or supercautious), wear a cross. 6. Let the locals know who you are and that you're there with an open mind to learn about them. Put some cash in the local economy. As soon as you hit a town, shop in the local market, take tea or a water pipe at the cafe, get a haircut at the town barber (which will be twice as neat and one tenth the price of a US clip). And be nice. 7. If anyone tells you not to enter a part of town or a street, including East Jerusalem, NEVER ignore them or argue, even if the person is only six . (He may have a slingshot, and he surely has some big friends nearby.) 8. Women shou ld dress modestly, covering their heads with a scarf and exposing a minimum of skin (thus simultaneously avoiding mayhem and melanoma). 9. Always make sure of the rules before entering any mosque or shrine. And obey them. (Nobody's going to steal your Nikes.) 10. Do not try to talk to any traditionally-dressed Muslim women (unless introduced by a member of their family). 11. Always carry a tightly-woven handkerchief or bandanna and a bottle of water to soak it in if the tear gas starts flowing. 12. Ask people's permission before taking their photo. 13. Come across as interested and inquisitive, never intrusive or superior. 14. Never complain about the local food, sanitation, customs, accommodations, infrastructure, etc (but it's okay to express sympathy about the tough conditions under which West Bankers exist). 15. As soon as you come to a town, find out where the local Palestinian Authority police station is; they usually try to protect the tourist trade and usually (but not always) know if there's a demonstration coming. 16. Tote a small pen of pepper spray or mace in your pocket for unavoidably tight situations. (Just don't pack it in your carry-on bag when you fly.) 17. Carry and display a clearly-titled copy of the Koran . (And when all else fails, read it.) • 55

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