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Backcountry travel is the ultimate snow adventure, but it requires effort. The backcountry is typically accessed by helicopter, snowcat, snowmobile or hoofing it (snowshoeing or skinning) uphill through deep snow with all your gear on your back. Human-powered trips can involve a full day of hik- ing then an overnight before the descent, while others start up into the ungroomed ether from the top of a lift-allowing you to access off-piste terrain while precluding a long trek from the bottom up. British Columbia (BC) is renowned for having some of the most spectacular skiing in the world, because of its variety of big mountain ranges and its consistent heavy snowfalls. There are colossal mountains all over the province, from the coastal ranges around Whistler/Blackcomb to those in the interior, near the towns of Fernie and Rossland. Whistler is a mecca for both ski bums and rich alpine enthusiasts from all over the planet, who come as much for the rowdy nightlife, refined dining and resort atmosphere as they do for the dramatic descents. Towns in interior BC, which serve as launching pads for equally challenging terrain, are less glamorous. The colder temperatures mean the mountains-with their extensive glades, big ridges and lengthy chutes- are almost always covered in unbeatably light, fluffy powder. Many formidable mountain ranges also have slopes suitable for less experienced back- country travelers. The Selkirk Mountains, also in BC, have great tree skiing (although avalanches do happen in trees, the more trees that are rooted on but he Ii-skiing is as close to heaven as any skier or snowboarder could imagine. Helicopters and snowcats allow you to reach places you couldn't get to any other way-a cherry, untracked, 2,500-foot face where you can carve long, drawn-out ribbons until your legs burn with pleasure-without having to hike with all your gear to get there. Although they'll get you to high places, helicopters are very weather dependent, and the conditions and terrain are not guaranteed-the snow can range from fluffy powder to windswept crust or heavy crud; the runs from moderately-pitched glaciers to steep tree skiing. Unless you are extremely experienced and familiar with the terrain, guides are essential for big mountain skiing, especially in Europe and New Zealand where ski areas are not safety patrolled or ava- lanche-controlled the same way they are in North America. Tour opera- tors and guides will be able to lead you to the best untracked snow and the safest descent routes. Be sure to ask the operator whether your ski- ing ability is sufficient for the terrain, what kind of shape you need to be in and if you need to bring any special equipment. The risks associated HEll-SKIING IS AS CLOSE TO HEAVEN AS ANY SKIER OR SNOWBOARDER COULD IMAGINE. a mountainside, the less chance that the slope will slide), making them suitable for backcountry beginners. Colorado, Utah and California have a bounty of high-altitude peaks and steep descents, as well as ranges such as the Wasatch, outside of Salt Lake City, with mellower, treed backcoun- try slopes that aren't too steep. Alaska is probably the world's most challenging backcountry ski destination, due to its wide open alpine faces, glaciers, ridge walks and steep pitches. Valdez is the extreme skiing capital of Alaska, and the launching point for trips into the Chugach Mountains, known for their big, steep descents and 700-inch annual snowfall. Getting into the mountains near Valdez requires basic mountaineering skills, and skiers must know not only how to traverse glaciers and crevasses, but how to evaluate snow sta- bility and avalanche risks. In the European Alps, resort boundaries are not often enforced, and there is more lift-accessed backcountry terrain here than anywhere else in the world. Un groomed, off-piste descents range from seven-mile runs that can take an afternoon to ski, to 4,900-foot, death-steep chutes. New Zealand's South Island has steep, hardcore, backcountry terrain with lots of couloirs and rocky outcrops. The snow is less dependable in New Zealand than it is in Europe or western Canada. When it falls, the wide runs are coated in powder; when it's scarce, steep chutes become icy and difficult. But the Southern Hemisphere seasons make New Zealand one of the few places, along with Chile and Argentina, you can ski trip in the mid- dle of July. Helicopter and snowcat are two ways to access remote, untracked ski terrain. Heli-skiing is costly: three to five runs can start at $500, while weeklong trips with a big operator can ring in around $5,000, with big mountain skiing, especial- ly those that are out of your control such as severe weather changes, avalanches, crevasses and danger- ous snow conditions are greatly increased when you venture back- country. Educate yourself about the risks of mountain t~avel and know how to use your equipment. Even if you are with a guide, you should be aware of avalanche safety before heading out. Mountain safety courses (www.avalanche.org) range from one-day introductory sessions to weeklong programs eventually leading to guide certification. For organizations offering courses in backcountry safety, see the Adventure Index, page 72. For a backcountry, heli- or cat-skiing trip you need to be at least a solid intermediate skier or snowboarder capable of handling difficult con- ditions. You should be able to side slip, step up sideways, traverse and make kick turns (changing your direction while standing in one spot). If you are a beginner, head out to British Columbia and the wide range of resort skiing there, and try a day backcountry trip at Whistler/Blackcomb. Regardless of your proficiency as a skier or snowboarder, on your first ven- tures into the backcountry, you should go with someone who knows what they're doing. You can prepare for your first backcountry trip by skiing steeper runs and skiing away from the groomed slopes whenever you can. The evolution of "fat skis" has made heli-skiing more accessible to less experienced skiers. Wider and shorter than most conventional skis, fat skis turn with ease, no matter what the conditions, making skiing in the trees easier than with thin skis. Backcountry skiing can be incredibly physically demanding. Strength and endurance are necessary to walk uphill for hours through snow with all of your gear, and to tackle long, deep-powder runs. Pad your trip with a few extra days of recovery time to heal your highly-taxed mus- cles. Jogging, running, cycling, weight training, aerobics or swimming are all activities that will help you to get fit for a week of rough terrain-and for great memories of fresh lines. -Chris Winter