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Tasman 5 e a NEW CALEDONIA , -. Coo k r a cause "williwaws" (a term created by explorers when describing conditions on an expedition in Antarctica), small tornadoes that seem to come from everywhere. On days when the Sounds are covered in williwaws, kayakers have been known to be uplifted by winds over 60 miles per hour. Educated kayakers will wait these out on a beach, boiling the billy for a brew! The area offers challenging sections for experienced paddlers as well as sections suitable for novices. Trips range from one-day excursions, to four-day journeys that explore the three sounds. One of the most scenic trips is a paddle through- out the outer Queen Charlotte Sound. You will spend three days exploring the numerous bays and coves in the Sound as you work your way back to Picton. Queen Charlotte Sound (called Totaranui by the indigenous Maoris) has fewer mussel farms and more natural bush than the other two sounds. More experienced paddlers can head to the outer coastlines fronting the famous Cook Strait with its rugged, ocean-beaten shoreline dotted with caves, stacks and blowholes offering hours of exploration. Shore·side campsites are managed by the ZEALAND New Zealand's Marlborough Sounds, a maze of coves, caves, islands, cliffs, beaches and wild li fe encompasses 20 percent of the country's 937 miles of coastli ne. It would take a whole summer to paddle every nook and cranny of this region. Most travelers visiting New Zealand think they see the Sounds when taking the ferry from north island (Wellington) to south island (Picton). In fact, they have glimpsed only a fraction of what lies between the sea and sky. Huge ridges, towering mountains (pushing 4,000 feet) and deep waterway drop-offs (vary- ing in depth from 115 feet to 400 feet) instantly transport you into a sea kayaking dream. You will hear the calls of the bellbird and glimpse the cheeky weka, a native flightless bird that hangs around campsites and will steal anything. You will also share the water with stingrays, fur seals, dolphins and whales. The weather can be extreme. The wind hits huge towering cliffs and bounces off causing the gusts to swirl in all directions. If the wind is strong it will whip around the many vast bays and Department of Conservation. Here you can slip into the deep waters to gather green-lipped mussels (found only in New Zealand) to satiSfy your hunger from a long day's paddle. The ~ rich ocean currents from the Pacinc Ocean and Tasman Sea, iil which embrace the Sounds, support one of the world's richest ~ food chains and ecosystems-an extensive seafood restaurant. ~ Kayakers can feast, while commercial fishing of the protected ~ waters is not allowed. The journey is over far too soon as you round the g ~ final head leading back into Picton. Most vow to return and take ~ a little more time. Plan on this from the outset of the trip.-Dino ~ Gardi & Graham Charles OUTFITTERS MARLBOROUGH SOUNDS ADVENTURE COMPANY, New Zealand This outfitter is based in Picton, making it easy to get to aU parts of the Sounds. 3 days, $185, November 2 to March 15, 64-3573-6078, www.marlboroughsounds.com OUTDOOR TRAVEL ADVENTURES, USA OTA takes care of everything from flights and accommodations to local guides. 5 days, $480, November to March (departing every five days), 877-682-5433, www.otadventures.com S ~ i" iii W 0: > '" o '" o « :::> o z '" '" '" :::> o 0: o ...J 0: « ~ '" '" >" 20 S '" i>' ~ ...J f3 '" Q. ~ 1t >' Z