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were certainly higher Francisco that people call Yet the idea of climbing mountains for fun had occurred to me. In Rampur, I used to watch the gadhls, local tribespeople, go up and down the mountain, to and from their homes. The women went up the mountain draped in brown blankets with ropes twirled around their waists several times over. As I watched them from my bedroom window, I used to feel sorry for them because they lived all the way up in the hills and could not afford to buy property in the more desirable valley area. The idea of people who had the privilege of living where they chose, and capricious means of transportation at their disposal, wanting to spend treacherous days climbing mountains was beyond me. But later, living in San Francisco's Bay Area, I found myself hanging out with hotshot mountain climbers. Their stories were fascinating and I began to wonder what the big deal was. I decided to find out by climbing Mt Kilimanjaro. On the advice of my climbing friends, I began a 20·week regime to increase my stamina that included things like hiking in the higher elevations of California, running up mountains and mountain biking. Kilimanjaro is a good mountain for a beginner to climb: it gives you high altitude experience and about a week of challenging climbing that does not require technical training. It is the highest mountain in Africa and the highest freestanding mountain in the world. Reigning queen of Kilimanjaro National Park, on the border of Kenya and Tanzania, this volcanic peak was created by the same tectonic activity that cleaved Africa's Great Rift Valley some 1.5 million years ago. The mountain had volcanic activity in three different locations: Kibo, Shira and Mawenzi. Lava flows from Kibo covered the remains of Shira and formed a lava plateau that connects Kibo to Mawenzi called The Saddle. Uhuru Peak (19,344 feet), crowned with glaciers with a crater in the middle, is Kilimanjaro's highest peak. Kilimanjaro's ecosystem is diverse: the mountain begins as thick savanna then becomes lush forests to about 9,514 feet leading to the flower-painted, relatively arid alpine tundra. Above 15,000 feet, it is all rock and snow. The climate consists of two rainy seasons-a short one and a long one-interspersed with two longer dry seasons. The conditions exhibit drastic changes from equatorial to arctic. The temperature decreases approximately one degree Celsius for every 200-meter increase in altitude. Beginning our ascent from 6,000 feet, our group chose the Rongai route from Loitoktok, Tanzania. The first day we hiked an easy four hours along a small, unspoiled trai l through forests of camphor and east African olive to the first camp at 9,570 feet. During the trekking at with the morning sun. the sea level, there is little DrotEic1lion I began to feel weak, dizzy and short of breath. was to to go slowly, sip tea and take frequent rests. It From Gillman's Point, we continued along the crater rim to reach Uhuru Peak (19,344 feet) and, at 8:50 AM, reached the top of Kilimanjaro. Mt Kilimanjaro whet my appetite to climb. I discovered that climbing mountains is addictive and I no longer wonder why people love to do it. To be on the top of a mountain completely clears your mind of all modern-day urban tensions. The experience makes you feel alive. • For Information on climbing other African peaks (Mt Kenya, Mt Stanley and Mt Meru), see the Africa Adventure Guide, page 54. If you want to climb Kilimanjaro with an outfitter, contact Alpine Ascents International, 206-378-1927, www.alpineascents.com. DETAILS. DETAILS MT KILIMANJARO DEMANDS THAT YOU BE RELATIVELY FIT. BUT NO TECHNICAL CLIMBING SKILLS ARE NECESSARY FOR THE MOST COMMON ROUTES. THE LEAST-DEMANDING AND MOST-POPULAR IS THE MARANGU. OR "COCA COLA: ROUTE (AT ONE TIME. EMPTY COKE CANS AND BonLES TRIMMED THE SIDES OF THE ROUTE). BUT THE MARCHEME. OR 'WHISKEY ROUTE: OFFERS BETTER VIEWS OF THE SURROUNDING AREA. MANY PEOPLE HIKE THE MARCHEME ROUTE SIX OAYS UP AND DESCEND ON THE MWEKA ROUTE IN A DAY. PERMITS TO CLIMB KILIMANJARO ARE ABOUT $450. IT IS ILLEGAL TO CLIMB KILIMANJARO WITHOUT A LOCAL GUIDE AMONG YOUR CLIMBING PARTY. YOU SHOULD TIP $100 PER GUIDE. PORTER AND COOK. THE BEST TIME TO CLIMB IS DECEMBER-MARCH AND JUNE-AUGUST. LOOK OUT FOR COLOMB US AND BLUE MONKEYS. ANTELOPES AND LEOPARDS. THERE ARE MANY BIRDS IN ALL APPROACH ZONES-INCLUDING THE COLORFUL HORN BILL AND THE TURACO WITH ITS RED WING MARKINGS. AS YOU CLIMB HIGHER. EAGLES AND BUZZARDS WILL BE CONTINUOUSLY OVERHEAD.-CHAD BREALEY NOTE: YOU CAN INCREASE YOUR CHANCE OF REACHING THE SUMMIT IF YOU ASCEND SLOWER. ALLOWING FOR BETTER ACCLIMATIZATION TO THE ALTITUDE.

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