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TEXT: DAPHNE HOWARD + NICOLLE BRATKOVICS Camping is the best way to experience the nature and wildlife of the African bush. Animal calls from miles away will sound like they are right outside your tent. And those that are close by will thunder in your chest. You will see more stars than ever imagined. Here are some things to consider when camping in some of the wildest places on earth. ---Research campsites along your route. Most major national parks countries have inexpensive public campsites nearby, although the facilities are often questionable. Some offer showers, toilet paper and food. Others won't offer anything but a spot to pitch your tent. Some safari lodges offer adjacent campsites, which are usually inexpensive. They also offer the added benefit of hopping into the lodge to dine. -Always sleep in your tent. Although most predators don't like the taste of human flesh, sleeping prey will tempt a wounded or an old predator not willing to put in the chase required for a choice antelope. -Don't pitch your tent under trees. Elephants forage at night and knock branches to the ground, not necessarily aware of sleeping humans underneath. --Pitch your tent away from animal paths. These paths are . well traveled by all sorts of animals. -For similar reasons, keep away from water holes. Many nocturnal animals travel to water holes at night for an H20 refill . -As the saying goes, "Never get between a hippo and its water." Take heed! Hippos come out of the water at night to graze and, although they are herbivores, they are also extremely aggressive. More people have died from hippo attacks than from any other animal attack. Camp clear of a river or lake edge. -Always keep food wrapped and packaged tightly. Baboons, monkeys and others are known to raid food supplies. an iii will issue one) to rent a cor. In others countries, you just need to be a good talker. Car rentals range from up to $1,000 a week for a 4x4 and less for a sedan. If you're traveling long and far, this will be worth every penny. In east Africa the roads are rough and usually unmarked and few rental companies will let you self drive. A car-and-driver package is a good way to save yourself hot, arduous hours on non-navigable where maps are a just a figment of the imagination. But if you are really determined, find a company that will rent you a vehicle and let the road be your guide. In southern Africa, driving is a piece of cake: most roads are paved or grated and there are maps and signs everywhere. Some areas are 4x4-only areas, but they are marked on maps. BUYING: If you plan to roam the African continent months with no itinerary and no plans, you may want to consider buying a vehicle-preferably a 4x4 to give you the most flexibility. In Johannesburg, South Africa, many dealers will sell you a vehicle with the option to buy it back from you at the end of your trip. HERE ARE SOME THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE YOU GET BEHIND THE WHEEL: -Make sure you take a couple of spare tires and know how to change a flat. -Find out how many kilometers a full tank will take you, then plan your fuel stops accordingly (some 4x4s have a reserve tank) . ---(:arry water, a flashlight and a pocket knife. -Watch for game crossing the roads, especially at dusk and dawn. -Watch for potholes. Some are big enough to break an axle (especially in Tanzania) -If you see piles of rocks in the middle of the road, drive around them without slowing down. Often thieves lie in wait by the side of the road for you to slow down or stop to remove the rocks. Then they rob you or carjack you. -As a generol rule, be wary of stopping to help anyone on the side of the road. II could be a similar scheme. -Know where you're going. Ask about any unusual turn-oils. Some countries do not mark their roads and the main roads into parks or towns could be faint tracks in the grass. safari, drinking water will be one of your main concems, attention to the water situation in each country-water IPoraolllryvaries wldely-ond keep sufficient supplies with you, In African countries you can drink the water, In most countries you won't want to, Carry water purification or contraptions or drink bollied water. Swimming is another consideration, As a general do not swim in stagnant water like swamps or ponds-and reeds, The tiny snails that spread the water-born disease live and breed in the reeds of still water. Bilharzia can by any kind of contact with infected water, IIII\.IUUIIIY splashes. Before you head to the fast-flowing river, check up '--------'n"'''nrt. downstream for crocodiles, These toothy beasts usually 100 twigs floating downstream, Do not swim at the same time in same place each day, and stay in shallow water, Croes are feeders and quickly catch on to scheduled prey. They'll be waiting for you. STEP ONE: GETTING TO AFRICA KLM, Lufthansa, British Airways and Air France fly to Africa, generally through London, Paris, Amsterdam or Frankfurt. KLM, in conjunctiol1 with Northwest, (800-447-4747, www.nwQ.com) has daily flights to Nairobi, Kenya or Arusha, Tanzania, via Amsterdam. Flights go for between US$1,500 (low season: mid-January-April and September-November) and US$1,900 (high season: June and September). Many African airlines go from US cities to African capitals direct. These include Air Ethiopia, Air Afrique (www.airaffrique.com) to the Ivory Coast, Ghana Airways {www.ghana-airrways.comJ and Egypt Air (www.egyptair.com.eg/docs/home.aspJ. South Africa Air (800-722-9675, www.saa-usa.com) has daily non-stop flights to Cape Town and Johannesburg. During the off season (April and May), Royal Air Morocco (212- 974-3850, www.royalairmaroc.com) has a special deal: for US$l,OOO you can fly from NYC to Casablanca direct, then on to Senegal, Tunisia, Cairo, Johannesburg or Algiers. For an extra U5$50, you can toke another stopover on the return trip. You can stop over for as long as you want, as long as it is within the two months that the ticket is good for.