Issue link: https://bluemagazine.uberflip.com/i/25121
BELAY DEVICES WHILE EIGHTS HAVE BEEN AROUND THE LONGEST, THERE ARE NOW SOME BEITER TOOLS. EIGHTS HAVE A TENDENCY TOWARD HUMAN ERROR SINCE ROPES FLOW THROUGH THEM EASIER THAN THE ALTERNATIVES, NAMELY ATCS AND GRIGRIS. NONETHELESS, EIGHTS ARE STILL POPULAR IN MANY GYMS ACROSS THE COUNTRY, YET NOT ENTIRELY RECOMMENDED FOR OUTDOOR USE. belay device is the figure-eight. and the number one choice of hard-core climbers. In fact, traditional place gear In the rock-use nothing but. The slotted design allows the than an eight. Likewise, rappelling is a bit more controlled. www.BlackDlamondEqulpment.com. $16.95.> 'W:MllltICႠ, IT'S A SOISO SPLIT BETWEEN ATCS AND PETZL'S MORE SAFER GRIGRI. devices. Once operational. it self-locks onto the rope by its own cam- of the belayer. This is a good tool for many reasons. First, if you're Drc)telctloln as she climbs, as opposed to top-raping-you're feed If she should take, say, a 30-foot whipper-lifting and slam GrlGrl, even If you get caught by surprise. In the gym they're Is working a route. One of the drawbacks of the GriGri is it can partners of another klnd-in the absence of a constant need 10 master on rappel. $70.> . .- ..., _;q,Ⴀ�(�� t .� You on't n a rope ering a gym ing. You nee one, ever, if you plan to embark on any class five top-roping or leading. A few of caution: get proper instruction, take a lesson, hire a guide, do whatever it ensure safety. Setting up top-rope, not to mention leading, requires skill. All gyms offer lessons while a handful have outdoor guiding services. Coupling knowledge with a good rope will accomplish one thing : death prevention. Climbing ropes are dynamic, which means they're woven in such a way that they or elongate (from five to eight percent) under tension. This makes falling a litt)e more comfortable, lie accommodating up to 3,000 pounds of pressure, the amount of force created by a good whi When shopping for a rope, size matters. Fifty- and Sixty-meter lengths are standard. "ri'""r,!",,,, of a shorter, 50-meter rope is its lighler weight. If you'll be introducing yourself to rock, checking out the gym's lead cave, a 50 is a good choice. The extra 10 meters you get with a 60, a the other hand, are key for intermediate to advanced climbing where you'll be exploring remote, unknown crags. It's standard for most outdoor applications, and guidebooks can give you an idea of how long the pitches are (hint: you'll need twice as much rope). The width issue is a touch more technical. Ranging anywhere from 8.0 to 11.0 millimeters, a rope's diameter dictates its weight, strength (how many falls it can withstand) and hand (how it feeds through the hardware). The best sport climbers-those ascending 5.14 plus-require lighter ropes, as every ounce counts. Also, narrower ropes have less drag, making them easier to feed and clip. Most gyms' ropes are about a 10.8 (read: ten-eight, not ten-paint-eight) or 11, since they get so much use. As you'll find, there are several 50 meIer, 1O.5s designed with an introduction to climbing in mind, while your second rope mighl be a dry-treated, 60 meIer 10.0. In any case, a rope is to be respected like life itself. Always coil it. Don't step on it. Don't slam it in the trunk and never curse il. Thanking it now and then never hurts. CHALK BAGS round oul your gear pa alk bag is a must to dry sweaty fingers. Any one will get job done. Our suggestion? one to match your shoes, as these are the only Iwo pieces gear you'll need for bouldering, climbing's most core discipline. special weave {over one, under two versus creates lower profile through hardware, rope feel more like a 9.5. It is also dry-treated, means it's good for use in wet conditions. 800-333-6679, www.neropes.com. $130.