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appeal of a naked woman. My friend and I soon left, oversaturated with ski n. The women in Iran smiled sweetly at me too, as our group stopped cli mbing I=nrl lC: for lunch at a restaurant. We were cu rious about each other. They wanted to know about me, a fair-skinned, fair-haired woman wearing a lavender tunic. I couldn't help but wonder about these Persian jewels who must be tremendously beautiful to warrant hiding them from others. I was curious about their hair, the shapes of their bodies, the way they'd express themselves through fashion if they could publicly show their style. Under the rule of the Shah, from 1921 to 1979, the women in Iran wore the modern fashions of the rest of the world. Iran's current dress codes came with the leadership of Ayatollah Khomeini, who died ten years ago. The laws are in place to protect both men and women from the appeal of women. A woman is held responsible when a man finds her attractive. In Iran I was told that rapists are put to death, unless a rapist can prove that his victim was in some way inappropriately uncovered. If she showed her hair, or her legs, or some body part that is illegal to show, he will be flogged, but not killed. It is partially her fault for luring him to her. I do feel safe here, covered up. No man dares to look me in the eye. It's not like in Mexico or Italy where you have to fight away the local men. But walking back down through Pas Galeh after climbing Mount Tochal, I learned that when women aren't around, all the men talk about is sex. Thus the irony censorship: getting less makes people want more. People who hear tales of my trip say: "You're focusing too much difficulties of covering up, and not enough on the country or mbing." I confess, I'm remiss: If you go to Iran to climb, you'll hike thro of walnut, mulberry and black cherry trees into highlands where alpi snow tulips and wild rhubarb are just beginning to bloom. Y and sport climb with Iranians on the hillsides above Tehran, es and gear. You'll climb new routes up mountains and camp stars. You'll feast daily on fresh cucumber, tomatoes, onions and a lamb kabobs and rice seasoned with saffron, enjoy garlic-fl local honey and dried dates. You'll stop for black tea and sugar cubes nearly every hour and sit in tea houses drinking doogh, fermented yogurt and mineral water. You won't get sick traveling here and you can drink the water. You'll be delighted to hear the Iranians ask, "Where are you from?" and see faces light up when you answer, "America." Even though I encourage you to go, and would go again myself, I'm alarmed that on the other side of the world, there's an entire country of women who, during the sixties and early seventies, wore miniskirts but now by law must cover up. After traveling in Iran I no longer have the urge to dance at a topless bar, but I'm glad I have the choice to. Dancing nude may oppress women. So might denying a woman her right to be seen. Using women's nudity as a commodity and shaming women to cover up are one and the same. Underexposed, overexposed-both equally objectify. AUTHOR JEAN WEISS IN IRAN 48