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As dawn breaks we motor out for the morning bite. Pink skies. Calm waters. Mimed promises of pescado grande. Though I knew my fly-fishing brethren would abhor my near blood-bait fall from grace, I still am not prepared for the lure that takes the place of my usual tiny nymph. Cheo dangles an eight-inch long, obscenely pink and barbed rubber worm in front of my face. The effete fly fisher in me is horrified-but my inner angler, bred on Midwestern bass and candystriped Mepps, screams out in carnal joy: These fish must be enormous! I start casting. We join Cheo in a cigar and grudgingly welcome a boatful of loud Italians into our honey hole. No sooner have I smoothed out my rusty spin casting when a hit sends my forearm plunging towards the boards. A tank of a fish, this fighter I hook has me waltzing around the tiny boat, Cheo following my lead, net in hand. Cheo is calm but my endorphins fire with each and every centimeter of line the fish takes. I haul in the lunker and am breathless with its mass. It tops 12 pounds, dwarfing the measly bass of my suburban youth. Bueno pescadora bellows from one corner of the boat. Jeers of chiquita pescado float across the water. A sunken American milk factory looms in the distance, and Cheryl repeats with Manhattan awe, "Oh my God. Oh my God." This is a fish story, so of course passion subsumes politics. My American passport makes this excursion forbidden and my American dollars make it possible, but as we motor back I am only thinking God that was a biggun'. And, as Hemingway might have said, I am happy. Blue's contributing editor, Holly Morris, took this fishing excursion while filming the pilot of her new television series, "Adventure Divas" (blue September+October 1998). While I managed to find gear (rod, reel and tackle) on one day's notice, many guide books will recommend tracking down permits, guides and equipment through resorts. For more information before you go, Cubatur 537-30-1512 offers brochures on fishinq throughout Cuba. Or try two newsletters published in the US: CubaNews, 713-358-2262 and Pan-Angling Travel, 312-263-0328. •