celebrate in a magical way'. still with ancient tradition."
way to Isla Janitzio to watch traditional dancing and a parade of canoes. Scents of the famous thinly-battered lake minnows, frying in gallons of liquid fat entwine with the aroma of simmering apple cider. The big draw IS the cemetery of pine
needle-covered graves attended by mourning friends and relatives. People clear weeds from gray-splotched gravestones, then wash, paint and repair masonry. Women place vibrant-hued flowers and blue and-pink plastic-ribboned bouquets with photos of Mary and tormented Jesus. Families bathed in candlelight pray for their relatives and eat graveside meals which turn into midnight vigils.
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Their hearts are on their cement memorials. The next day in the cemetery, bittersweet
chanting echoes from all sides of the brick walls. The prayers of relatives are an aural balm, an ethereal peace expressed through humble gestures in honor of the dead. -Marc Bennett
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