Issue link: https://bluemagazine.uberflip.com/i/25037
The bus lurches over a dirt road from Alice Springs to Uluru, through the sunburned land scape of Australia's Northern Territory. Uluru (Ayers Rock got its Aboriginal name back in 1985). is one of the country's most visited sites. Close to 350,000 people approached the base of the 1,143-foot-high monadnock last year, and about 140,000 of them made the hard walk to the top. But AboriQines don't want "the Rock" climbed any more. A trailhead sign tells visitors in four languages that the Anangu Aboriginal group prefers that they not climb, proposing an alternative base walk past caves, rock art and watering holes. Uluru is a tremendously sacred site for the Anangu. Generations ago boys went through rite-of-passage tests in caves at Uluru's base. The youths' final initiation was a climb up Uluru's 984-foot spine followed by secret rituals at the peak. It was the only time they ever ascended Uluru. Founded in 1958, Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park has been the site of a land battle between whites and Aborigines. Only in 1977, with the Land Ownership Act, were land reclaims made possible for indigenous people. In 1985, government authorities and Aborigine leaders signed a 99-year lease, mak- a representative of a company that sells itself on "doing" Uluru. With his wide sideburns and wraparound shades this rebel in a Ranger Rick suit is an unlikely candiclate for an Aboriginal rights activist. But an Anangu tribal elder has taught him a few things. "They are a tolerant people and believe it is in Westerners' blood to climb," explains Jo. "But they ask you not to because Uluru is sacred to them." "A lot of guides don't tell clients how the Aborigines feel," says Jo. "But you don't walk topless in a mosque-how is this any different?" People have desecrated sacred areas as recently as 1996; rock paintings are marred by graffiti such as "Elspet and Renee." But there may be a price: Jo believes 1997's increased death rate (five lives lost. compared to two in 1996), malfunc- Nganana Tatintja Wiya - - WE DO NOT CLIMI