Issue link: https://bluemagazine.uberflip.com/i/25036
su CUS D rest my life-i.e. olleqe, ob, wife, hildren. I'd thought if I indeed found surf on this remote island I knew little about, it would help get some of this "surfing" out of my system. Today, I'm still not settled down, not married, but I'm still surfing and traveling. I was back for essentially the same reasons that took me there the first time-the love of travel, adventure and surfing. A different island, but largely the same motivations. While surfing was the key motivator, it was not only the act of riding a wave, but all the sights, sensations and anticipations that accompany the surfing life. I bought the house site unseen. It sits on a perfect point break, never before inhabited by surfers. I had visited by sea, but never by land. I bought my surf house before ever owning a " rea I house." The people I bought it from were a classic couple who loved the island in general, and this specific location, as much as I would quickly come to love it. Doug Roberts, the owner, had had a movie made based on his life, called Mr Roberts (starring Henry Fonda). While waiting for the house deal to close, I thought I should at least see it before everything was final, so I flew down from New York on my way to Argentina. I arrived late one night, still dressed for New York way. Sweating rn",n".,r""\1 started walking from the for the night toward the point was. A light flickered to guide my in the humid tropical night, taking in all ....... ,,-~ ••• sounds, smells (it brought back memories of halfway to the trips to Hawaii), I got about and knew, without hesitation, back to my cottage, and the next morning "".~U".u to Argentina with a snapshot and the keys to the keys and I was like a proud parent with the in my Argentina hotel room. At the over three was still back " Life busy making stopping off in Argentina, my father for the fi design lecture I was giving to people in Buenos Aires my mind that small Caribbean Island. happens to you while you're plans," said John Lennon. Upon Diego on my return from informed me I was to be a where I att'encle(~ Lunada Bay 1:1 .. n1I .. n ... " California.) We families in dad was in in Florida, like most of the Beach, for the space program. My of the Surveyor program-the first land on the moon. (Before that, he lot.) I attended Cocoa Beach