Consider the space/time continuum as a vast blank ocean that allows perfect, hollow waves to appear in certain places and, above all, prompts in us the desire to ride them. These waves have the same mythical
potential as a horse-wild, untamed, powerful. To mount the horse, to join the wild, we l).eed to learn how to survive. If we consider surfing like other fine arts-say origami or crime-we will
have fixed points around which a discussion on the strategies of survival can take place. But survival is so complex and multifaceted that any strategy seems vague. In the words of the French singer Serge Gainsbourg, a discussion on the subject is, by its very nature, "comme la vague, irresolue."
To BE BESOrfED: SURFING'S OI\S I·.SSIVI. Elle; "
The obsession for surfing is like that for heroin. Both obsessions offer an exhilaration that fluctuates between self-worship and self-destruction. They both demand living on the razor's edge.
The character of obsession is unclear. In a certain sense, obsession is often associated
