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Of the hundreds of earthquakes that strike Ja of sake. But the 7.2 pummel ing of Kobe on Januar footage each year, most barely cause a ripple in a cup , 1995, shook more es spawne wi espread tremorphobia. Tokyo residents, whose hometown straddles three active fault lines, feel particularly vulnerable. More th n two years after the Kobe disaster, predicting the next "Big One" is still a hot conversation topic. If a city cou spea , 0 0 would chant, "We're next." Tokyo's Earthqu ke Science Hall is created by a culture that commemorates its tragedies by memo­ rted fetuses to parasites. A museum devoted to damage control, it has attract­ rializing everything from ed a tsunami of new visitor since Kobe. But touring the government-owned museum does little to soothe one's fears. Typical guests are members of the local knitting club: a gaggle of middle-aged suburban house­ wives clad in flowery blous s and brightly-colored polyester pants. They peruse videos, charts and maps forecasting Tokyo's impend ng doom, before meandering through a photography show recounting the last "Big One," a devastating 1 23 quake of 7.9 magnitude that killed over 140,000 people. A security guard tnen herds the group into he Experimental Room," which the museum advertises as the place to "experi­ ence the smoke of fires an the tremors of an earthquake ... [to] get a feel for the horror people go through in a real disaster." Waiting ervously, the women remove their shoes and gingerly climb a few steps to enter "Earthquake Corner,· a fa x three-room apartment programmed to reproduce Japan's most frightening quakes. Kneeling in silenc practicing Zen meditation structure begins to shudde The passengers, h the floor. Another's specta simulator's locomotive-like utes of tremors, the · survi Making room for t tails, the adults are whiske blindly crawl through a cra each woman leaves the fa After receiving basic traini The museum's dir ues the rigorous drills as a own home against earthqu laments, "mine is wood-it on the floor of the tractor-trailer-size simulator, the women look as if they're ther than awaiting its antithesis. "Okay, ready for 1923?" warns the guard. The Moments later, it lurches to and fro like a chaotic amusement park ride. wever, are not amused. One woman's camera flies off a dresser and crashes to es drop from her face. Several others huddle underneath the kitchen table. The oar all but drowns out its occupants high-pitched shrieks. After about two min­ rs" stumble out, relieved and sweaty. e dozen uniformed schoolchildren awaiting their turn to become human cock­ off to the next circle of preparedness hell. In the "Smoke Room," the women ped, cloudy chamber that replicates a blaze. One by one groping for the exit, gy room coughing and disheveled, a dainty handkerchief pressed to her face. in first aid, the exhausted visitors retreat to the safety of their mini-bus. ctor, Mitsuo Ono, downplays the discomfort that his guests may suffer. He val­ ress rehearsal for catastrophes to come. When asked how he has protected his es, Mr. Ono seems resigned to fate. "I'm too poor to build a strong house," he ill probably crumble when the Big One hits!" -David Wallis The Earthquake Science Hall at the Kita City Disaster Prevention Center, 2-16 Nishigahara, Kita-ku 114, Tokyo (011) 813 3940-1811. Admission is free. ion

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