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V6N1

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"The BishVLoi view trees aVLd aVLimals as tarpaulin on the roof, and the crumbling walls. The old man pulled over a wooden bed frame, strung with rope, like a hammock, and gestured for us to sit. Jodha, our guide, chatted with the old man in Rajasthani. They made an odd couple, Jodha, the city blueblood, with his smooth, air· conditioned complexion, ruby earrings, and snappy black sport shirt; the old man his fragile, white shadow. Jodha explained to us that our host had been pleased with the harvest. Normally, animals eat about 15 percent of the crops-yet even in times of scarcity, a Bishnoi will not chase a wild animal away from his fields. In accordance with the sect's philosophy, each village maintains a grain bank and a water trough in a sacred grove that is set aside for the use of wild animals. The result is ecological balance in a land that is anything but bountiful. This year, however, there is plenty for all. The rains have been good, the old man repeated, with satisfaction. The facade of the house had been painted with ochre designs, a sign of happy people with a little leisure time, thanks to the rain . Our hostess wore the traditional red-and-black printed skirt, an enormous sunburst of a nose ring, and silver anklets thick as shackles. As she made tea in the kitchen, she hollered out to Jodha, and interrupted her husband as often as possible, belying the seemingly subservient nature of her task. She did not, however, think it appropriate to have her picture taken next to her spouse. She pulled her veil over her head and held the corner of it between her teeth. The children seemed too young to be the couple's offspring, but so it was. We had overestimated the couple's age. In Rajasthani villages, the desert is burned into the faces of people, sand dusting the wrinkles of their sweaty skin. We chatted for some time, without having to skirt around the awkward questions that were usually posed to us-what caste were we, did we have 40 rupees, would I give them my watch? These were not their concerns. They were farmers, the rains had been good, and although they would have liked a better road and perhaps another school, these Bishnoi villagers had no reason to question Jambho Ji's wisdom, even after 500 years . GETTING THERE TRAVELERS CAN FLY DIRECTLY TO JODHPUR FROM NEW DELHI, AS WELL AS FROM RAJASTHAN'S MAJOR CITIES OF JAIPUR AND UDAIPUR. THERE'S ALSO TRAIN SERVICE FROM NEW DELHI (OVERNIGHT) AND FROM JAIPUR (FOUR HOURS). VISITORS WITH MORE TIME TRAVEL OVERLAND WITHIN RAJASTHAN, EITHER BY LUXURY BUSES, WHICH CONNECT THE MAJOR CITIES, OR HIRED CAR. HOTELS IN AND AROUND JODHPUR OFFER HALF-DAY GUIDED "WILDLIFE SAFARIS " TO BISHNOI LANDS, FOR $10 TO $20. MOST GROUPS STOP AT THE VILLAGE CALLED GUDA BISHNOI, WHICH, DURING HIGH SEASON (NOVEMBER TO JANUARY), IS CROWDED WITH VISITORS. ASK IF YOUR GUIDE WILL TAKE YOU OFF THE BEATEN PATH, AS JODHA DID FOR US. LODGING IN JODHPUR RANGES FROM THE SUMPTUOUS TO THE GRANDIOSE .. .sO FINDING A LOW-PRICED BED TO REST IN IS NO EASY MATTER. HAVELI GUESTHOUSE (+91-291-614615) IS ONE OF THE FEW INNS AVAILABLE IN THE OLD CITY, OFFERING BASIC, BUDGET ACCOMMODATION FOR AROUND $10 A NIGHT. JODHPUR'S TOP HOTELS INCLUDE TAJ HARI MAHAL (+91-291- 439700, WWW.TAJHOTELS.COM). AND UMAID BHAWAN PALACE (+91-291-510101), BOTH $150 TO $200 A NIGHT, ALTHOUGH OFF- SEASON DISCOUNTS ARE SIGNIFICANT. A DOUBLE ROOM AT THE CHARMING, RAMBLING AJ IT BHAWAN PALACE (+91-291-510410, WWW.AJITBHAWAN.COM) IS $50 TO $75. • 30 LEARN MORE INTERESTED IN READING ALL 29 BISHNOI PRINCIPLES? GO TO WWW.BISHNOI.ORG. WHICH AIMS TO BE AN E-CHAUPAL (DISCUSSION FORUM) FOR COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT AND ALL THINGS BISHNOI.

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