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Style Born From History and Adventure The Narsaq fleece 1.800.817.0618 www.napaplJrIUsa.com itineraries hit the Antarctic Peninsula and then one or two destinations in the South Atlantic (South Georgia Island, the South Orkneys). The Antarctic Peninsula is a finger of land extending 1,200 miles toward South America. Not only is it the part of Antarctica closest to South America, it's also considered the prettiest. Ninety percent of travelers to Antarctica visit the peninsula. SEASICKNESS: Drake Passage is the roughest patch of sea on earth. Cocky expedition leaders will console passengers with the overused, "Look, folks, it can be the Drake Lake or the Drake Shake." It's not so funny when the ship is lurching through lO-foot seas at five knots. Most passengers get their sea legs after a day or two. Others will spend sea days in an antihistamine-induced coma. At least bring seasickness tablets. Sedatives are helpful on long crossings when sleep is the only worthwhile activity. If the situation becomes desperate, ask the ship's doctor for a Phenergan injection. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS: Lemaire Channel, llkm long and just 1,600m wide, runs between the mountains of the Booth Islands and the Peninsula. It is one of the most photographed locations in Antarctica because of the sheer snow walls that rise into majestic mountains on both sides of the icy channel. The Gerlache Strait is famous for floating icebergs that resemble modern abstract sculpture. The backdrop to viewing this natural art is stunning icy mountains that rise from the cold water's edge. Livingston Island is home to some of the most bountiful and spectacular wildlife in Antarctica. You can view huge penguin colonies, f locks of gulls, three varieties of seals, and humpback whales. Peterman Island is known for the red and green algae found in the snow, Adelie Penguins and fascinating cracked-rock formations. WHAT TO EXPECT FROM A GROUP TRIP: Financial and time constraints make travel to Antarctica difficult, if not impossible, for most people. If you can make it, Antarctica is where you'll experience nature at its rawest. Be prepared to spend time with over-50 retirees (they've got time and money) and science buffs. Ships carry anywhere from 35 to 1,000 people. Choose the smallest group you can. Larger ships may offer more amenities and less bounce in rough seas, but smaller boats offer more shore time and a more personal experience. Who needs a disco in Antarctica anyway? ACCOMMODATIONS: Most travelers sleep aboard ship, though some outfitters offer camping on land for a night or two as an option. SMALL EXPEDITIONS: Inaccessibility and harsh climate make Antarctica a tough place to go solo. Arranging a small expedition requires sophisticated logistical planning and a real knowledge of how to travel in the region. Kayaking and mountaineering trips are most common. To set up a kayaking trip, contact an expedition company offering trips to Antarctica. They will explain what you're required to provide-the equipment, the expertise, and a plan-and, working together, you'll figure out the details of getting kayaks to South America, appointing a drop-off and pickup spot, and, of course, a price. Because they'll have to set aside a berth for you as well as store your equipment, expect to pay full fare plus an additional fee. Mountaineering trips are more difficult to coordinate owing to limited access to the inland where the climbs are. (For a first-hand experience of mountaineering in Antarctica see "Talking With a Mountaineer," an interview with Kristoffer Erickson.) GEAR: Wind pants, heavy-duty fleece, shell jacket, hat, gloves, scarf, camera with at least two rolls of film per day of travel, lens chamois, plastic bag for camera, ski goggles, binoculars, long underwear, heavyweight socks with liners, rubber galoshes are a must for shore landings.