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Footpaths are still the highways of rural Nepal and during the three-week circuit of the massive Annapurna Range, you'll feel a kinship with the long-haul "truckers" (mostly men from the local Sherpa communities] who carry supplies on their backs to the most remote outposts, In many villages, noth- ing comes in or goes out except on someone's back so the trail is well maintained and well used, The 200-mile trail is a mecca for Western trekkers who come from allover the world to climb , wind and weave their way amongst some of the world's highest mountains and experience the culture of rural Nepali villages. On the way around the Annapurna Circuit, the trail crosses through lush green rice paddies, climbs up the 17,700-foot- high Thorung La (one of the world's highest mountain passes] and descends through the huge gorge formed by the Kali Gandaki River (the world's deepest gorge!. On the north side of the range, parts of the trail are rem- iniscent of the stunning alpine deserts of Tibet and wild marijuana grows along the edges of the tra il. Those same villages that the truckers are supplying often have teahouses that provide food and accommodation to the legions of trekkers. Once just simple shacks that provided tea and dal (lentil stew), today's teahouses are comfortable abodes that offer a wide variety of food and drinks and (occasionally] hot showers, Since deforestation is a major problem in Nepal, make certain that any shower water is heated by the sun rather than by wood fires. Altitude sickness is a serious concern, especially in the passes, so most trekkers make daylong acclimatization stops along the way to allow their bodies to get used to the high altitudes, These stops pro- vide the perfect opportunity to visit Buddhist monasteries and temples, check out the yak herds, or watch Himalayan griffons wheel overhead on 1 O-foot wings. Be sure to take it easy on the chhang, Tibetan-style rice beer that will only exacerbate altitude sickness, Weather, especially crossing Thorung La, can be severe. "It was so cold, I thought I'd return home with no fingers left on my hands," recalls American trekker Nicole Cho, After three weeks you descend back in to civil ization and the smog and traffic jams of Kathmandu will make you want to go right back to the start of the trail. * ESTIMATED TIME TO HIKE TRAILS ASSUMING THAT AN AVERAGE HIKER COVERS 10 TO 15 MILES PER DAY. ADJUSTMENTS HAVE BEEN MADE FOR TER- RAIN AND TRAIL CONDITIONS,