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afternoon. That's when the jungle is too hot for most noise; the birds aren't chirping, the insects are quiet, the frogs haven't started their nightly chorus and whatever few mammals around are hidden, waiting for darkness. You can hear the BOOM rolling down the Napo River, just west of Misahualli, seven hours from Quito-just the other side of the Andes really-in a part of the Ecuadorian rainforest that is more than sacred, or a national treasure or even a world treasure. See, this part of the earth is a one of a kind, a swath of for­ est that holds the highest level of biodiversity on the planet. Think about that for a moment, an area smaller than Manhattan and within it live more creatures and crit­ ters and plants than anywhere else in the world.

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