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90· POINTS ON THE MAP Vanishing Acts: The Ecuadorian Rainforest 20 The Ecuadorian rainforest is ground zero for biodiversity and all the possibilities such diversity brings-as long as it remains standing. But the rainforest is going to disappear. BY STEVEN KOTLER The Galapagos Islands_26 Created by an ancient volcanic explosion off the northwest coast of South America, this archipelago is home to an astounding number of endemic species. BY MICHELE SHAPIRO Avenue of the Volcanoes_25 For fun and fear, visions of lava lure climbers to Incan highlands. BY PATRICK KANDIANIS I�JF� 1HI�1NI��1 �INI On the Road to Afghanistan Part Three: Among the Seekers_ In this final Central Asian dispatch, Robert Young Pelton concludes his journey toward understanding a region wracked by years of conflic!. After Grossing the Khyber Pass into Afghanistan he learns about camel-assisted drug trafficking, hangs out with the Taliban leaders in Kabul and the boys on the front lines. BY ROBERT YOUNG PELTON lr[}={Ⴀ � [p �[Q)[Q)[L� ���QJJ � A River Seeking Culture_32 BY AARON BIBLE Running MongOlia's Chuluut Rlver_40 BY LARRY RICE Paddling the Bosphorus Strait of Istanbul_38 BY JOEL w� ROGERS Charging the Winter Storm SurC36 BY JOEL W. ROGERS Rodeo: Riding the Edge_34 BY STORMY COLMAN JJOlUJ�INlIEYU� 1E1Nl[Q)_®(OJ Orcan Dreams BY JOEL ROGERS 00 columns �UJJIE MOOINl 7/2 SINS OF THE FATHERS_ Home to one of the finest collections of Byzantine art, this Greek peninsula [Q)�1]"(o)l\JJ� �® The Tibetans-: A Struggle to Survive has banned women from setting foot Images on the Tibetan path to on its soil since the 11th century. freedom. Excerpts from a new BY KEN KRISTENSEN book by Steve Lehman. 30· Freedom is taking to the water. It is exploring descents in Mongolia and ancient paddles in Istanbul. It is travelling the world for the rush of whitewater and surfing Pacific winter breaks in kayaks. scends the political borders of India Surf Kayaks_ and Pakistan and ideological differ- Paddle Picks_ Junoon's blend of '70s hard rock� Whitewater Kayaks_ Bombay pop and Sufi mysticism tran- Paddle FeeC I8lll\JJ � IN] (0)1]" � b7(Q) @�ffi\�_ M LOVE AND POP IN-THE Sea Kayaks_ INFORMATION AGE Folding Kayaks_ ences of East and West. They have become the soundtrack of a pan- Asian youth culture that spans the globe. lUJ ���1Nl �((IE��_7/ � BY RICHARD MURPHY CIRCLES OF ADVENTURE AROUND Marrakech and New York 60· 15° 15° 30· FONT DESIGNERS: poblo medino. miles neWlyn, edwin utermohlen

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