Issue link: http://bluemagazine.uberflip.com/i/25062
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,. __ So you're a climber, or have climbed before and want to climb again, or maybe you aon't want to climo now but still think climbing's a good idea and you'll climb sometime in the future. You also like the type of technical climbing that's hand over-foot and requires an array of expansion bolts, pitons, artificial chockstones and nylon slings. Here's a little something to wrap your mind around: You may have less than a year to do it in some of your favorite places before it's illegal. In a June 1 ruling, the US Department of Agriculture Forest Service prohibited the use of Qermanen fixed anchors for rock climbin in natio al w' de ess a eas Their reasoningw i� s..:
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an interpretation of the 1964 Wilderness Act that bans permanent installations such as roads, dams, cabins, aircraft landing strips and livestock corrals in areas designated as national parks. According to the Forest Service, the palm-sized anchors that allow climbers to descend from highly technical climbs (think: Wyoming's Cirque of the Towers) are, indeed, permanent installations that damage the rock and adversely affect flora and fauna. The Access Fund, a non-profit organization dedicated to wilderness conservation and pub
lic access to those areas, is fighting the measure. The group claims that no scientific evidence exists to support the Forest Service's assertion. For example, an analysis conducted by the Forest Service concludes that anchor bolts and slings have no significant impact on wilderness environments. Obviously, this leaves opponents of the measure scratching their heads. The fixed anchors around which the controversy rages usually measure 1/4" to 3/8" in
diameter. Hand drilled into rock-electric drills are currently banned-they provide climbers an "anchor" through which lines can be secured for safe rappels down cliff faces. The Forest Service's ruling effectively ends technical climbing on many historic routes- such as Colorado's Lizard Head Peak and California's Mt Whitney
region-since climbers will have no means to return to the N ground. Even relatively easy climbs could be jeopardized: if
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bad weather or medical emergencies occur, the lack of fixed anchors will literally leave climbers hanging.
of the ruling for one year, the prohibition will remain in Idaho's Sawtooth Wilderness so the Forest Service can study its effects. Meanwhile, climbing groups,
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___ SJade_Go.rton=8.re I.o.oklng at ways to defe.at what Access Fund President William R.
� . Su Ie 1:1 has called "a misguided and Wilderness Act." � � ��