the Adventure Lifestyle magazine

1:j;ႀ䊉; )ii$1tor.�: Keela, noW eig/lteen, "'as been surfing since her dad taught age of four, in Kauai, Hawaii. She now lives in Oahu and tour, which takes her around the world. "My favorite place to surf is right here in Oahu. But where do I like to go? Well, actually, I love to go to California." "I've been to Japan twice. I like Japan. The people are really nice, the cars are really compact, and the food's really good. But the waves don't compare at all. Here in Hawaii the waves are really powerful, and in Japan it's really small, mostly beach breaks." Out of all the places I've been, to recommend a rad surf trip I'd say Australia, 'cause there's endless coastline and it's really pretty and there are lots of waves and nobody around. I spent most of my time in New South Wales. We went up to Queensland, up in Kirra, but it takes a cyclone for that place to get good. There was only like half a cyclone, so the waves weren't great most of the time I was there. I've seen pictures of Kirra breaking, and it's the right barrel forever, crazy wave, but it doesn't break all that often. But I've. never been to Bali or Fiji, and I'd really like to go to both of those places. " photo: jason childs History: Became a surf legend after he co-starred in Bruce Brown's epic surf movie Endless Summer. Went on to become a successful surf industry entrepreneur in California. " ... Sometimes the places everyone knows about are sti ll good, like Witches Rock, a well known wave that breaks on sandbars on a long beach in the northern part of Guancaste. The wave breaks in the shadow of an enormous black rock that sticks up in the center of the bay. It was the day after Xmas and I was with my son and a couple of friends and there was no one else around. There were a lot of solid eight-foot sets with completely hollow barrels. In the morning the tide was low and it was breaking right next to the estuary. And then as the tide jumped in there were lefts on the other side of the estuary. By the end of the day that waS the main left. wliich is odd because it is usually a left. There was a big crocodile out there in the line-up, too. I came out at the end of the wave and there it was just hanging out. It scared the hell out of me. Didn't bother anybody, though." photo: grannis --'" Alex Salkever is writing a book about living and surfing on the North Shore of Oahu, His articles have appeared in Conde Nas! Traveler, Islands, and SURFER.

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