Issue link: http://bluemagazine.uberflip.com/i/24995
"You wake up and you know how the surf is. You can hear it in the morning when it's really big, listening to the waves coming on the outside reef. It sounds like thunder, and you can feel the ground shaking." "You can bodysurf. You can tandem surf. You can canoe surf. And you can risk your life on a twenty foot day. " "I see a Hawaiian tradition that dates back prior to the birth of this nation. It's a noble, distinguished heritage." "Makaha is a surfing sight of many moods. The quality of the water and the ocean is crystal, clear. Usually a nice offshore breeze holds the surf up and makes for the best surfing in the world. " "For years I've been asking myself, 'What is this great hypnotic appeal to surfing?' and I would have to say that surfing is a no-boundaries sport. There are no time limits. There are no out of bounds lines. There is a very strong safety protocol, but there aren't stringent rules that you have to adhere to. It appeals to the rebellion in all of us." photo: david singletary "The best wave there for me is at a place they call Haupiti on Moorea. It's a super hollow left on this mushroom reef breaking way out on the reef pass. We rode out in a boat maybe a quarter mile. It reminds of the left right next to my home break Makaha, the wave they call Clausemeyers. The water is so crystal blue. But you don't notice the things swimming around underneath you because the wave is six to eight feet and full square bar rels. I would say it's a little bit faster than Hawaii. I've seen it handle up to ten or twelve feet. It's a real shallow reef-only four feet deep in some places. One time I ate it and I couldn't believe how far I got dragged. It was maybe twenty or thirty yards but it felt like a hundred. I popped out and I was like, Man, that's almost the whole break. " "My favorite time was the one of those days in the late afte rnoon. It was the most unreal wave I had ever seen. The sun was going down and it was perfect blue glassy water. I just dream about it ." photo: ron brazil FAVORITE SPOT, ," .. . ' ... .". . . "' .... '.�